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School Needlework 



A Course of Study in Sewing designed 
for nse in Schools 



OLIVE C. HAPGOOD 

Teacher of Sewing in Boston Public Schools 



" Learfi the sound qtialities of all useful siuffs, and tnake everything 
of the best you can get, avhatever its price. . . . and theti, every day, make 
some little piece of usefid clothing, seivn ivith your own fingers as strongly 
as it can be stitched ; and embroider it or other^vise beautify it moderately 
with fine needlework, such as a girl may be protcd of having done^ 

John Ruskin. 



PUPIL'S EDITION 



BOSTON, U.S.A. 
GINN & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS 



Tr7/o 



Copyright, 1892, 
By olive C. HAPGOOD. 



ALL kIGHTS RESERVED. 
24.12 



<3inn Si Company? 

Ebe Btbena^um press 

JBoston 



PREFACE. 



The importance of instruction in sewing in the Public 
School is now generally recognized. As manual training 
comes into greater prominence, new methods and helps 
are necessary. The demand for these was felt by the 
author, and this book is the result of practical experience 
in the class-room. Its purpose is to assist both teacher 
and pupil ; lightening the teacher's labors by saving 
constant repetition, and giving the pupil a manual for 
reference, with the hope that the information thus- ac- 
quired will assist in fitting her for the duties of life. 
Simplicity with completeness has been the aim through- 
out. 

In the teacher's edition, the work is further supple- 
mented by practical hints and suggestions as to successful 
methods of teaching the lessons, and by courses of study 
for Kindergarten, Primary, and Industrial Sewing. It 
also contains a list of articles obtainable for a sewing 
cabinet, and talks on kindred subjects. 

The author wishes to acknowledge her indebtedness to 
the teachers who have so kindly assisted her, and to 
members of the School Board for their advice and interest 
in the preparation of the work. 



CONTENTS. 



PART I. 



I'AGE. 



General Directions i 

PART II. 
Plain Sewing - - 13 

PART III. 
Ornamental Stitches 115 

PART IV. 
Drafting, Cutting, and Making Garments - - - - 129 

PART V. 

Description of Articles Used in Sewing - - - - 170 

Index - 187 



PART I. 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

Dear Girls : You have now become old enough to 
prepare for woman's duties ; one of these is the art of 
sewing, which we will take up as simply as possible. By 
following the given directions carefully, you will become 
able to dress your dolls, assist your mothers in mending, 
make garments, fancy articles, etc. 

A convenient outfit for your school sewing consists of 
a bag large enough to hold certain necessary materials 
and the garment to be made. The bag should be made 
of dark or medium-colored cloth, so that it may not soil 
easily, and should have a strong gathering tape. 

The following articles are needed. — i . Half a yard of 
bleached or half-bleached cotton cloth for a trial-piece 
and sample work. 

2. Spools of white cotton, Nos. 40-80, also one of No. 
50 colored cotton for basting. 

3. A well-fitting silver or celluloid thimble, for the 
second finger of the right hand. 

4. An emery bag to brighten the needle, when it does 
not go through the cloth easily. 

5. A paper of Nos. 5-10 ground-down needles. 

6. A pinball well filled with small pins. 

7. A tape measure. 

8. A piece of wax. 



2 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

9. A pair of scissors, for girls in the higher classes. 

Your name should be written with ink on the bag, 
paper of needles, spools of thread, and sample cloth. An 
easy way to remember the necessary articles is to let the 
hand represent the cloth ; the thumb, the bag ; the first 
finger, the spools of cotton ; the second finger, the thimble 
and emery bag ; the third finger, the needles and pins ; 
and the fourth finger, the tape measure and wax. 

Directions for putting away the work. — i . Before fold- 
ing the work, run the needle in and out of the cloth, near 
the last stitches, so as to keep it secure and aid in finding 
the place at the next sewing lesson. 

2. To fold the work, smooth it out, fold it lengthwise 
and narrow enough to go into the bag ; then fold it the 
opposite way. 

3. Put the thimble into the bag first, as it is apt to be 
forgotten. 

4. After all the articles are placed in the bag, draw it 
up closely. 

5. Wind the tape tightly around the bag until about 
six inches of it are left. 

6. Place two fingers of the left hand over the coil of 
tape, and wind once over the fingers and around the bag. 

7. As the fingers are withdrawn, slip the end of the 
tape through, and draw tightly. 

If the above directions are carefully observed, no girl 
should report any missing article at the next lesson. 

Directions for sewing. — i . Be very careful to have clean 
hands. 

2. Sit in an erect position, never resting any part of 
the arm on the desk. 

3. Do not fasten the work to the desk or knee. 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 3 

4. Never sew without a thimble, either the top or the 
side of it can be used. 

5. Do not put the work or thread to the mouth, as 
that will soil it. 

6. In plain sewing, begin to sew at the end of the 
cloth, or at a seam, Jioldiiig the pai't of the work not sewed 
in the left Jiaiid. 

7. When scissors are not used, to break the thread 
place the left thumb-nail firmly over the last stitches ; 
wind the thread around the right forefinger, and break 
the thread with the right thumb-nail. 

8. Do all sewing nicely, making the stitches small and 
even, having the wrong side look as neat as possible, and 
sewing the corners with great care. 

9. When obliged to take out the stitches, use the eye 
of a needle, and pick out one stitch at a time ; in stitch- 
ing, pick out the thread on one side, then on the other. 

10. Before showing the work to the teacher, fasten the 
needle securely in the work. 

We will call the fleshy or soft part of the forefinger a 
sewing cushion. 

What are the necessary articles for school sewing? Upon which finger is the 
thimble worn ? For what is an emery bag used ? Where should the needle be placed 
before putting away the work ? What should first be put into the bag ? Why should 
the bag be tied up carefully ? In what condition should the hands be ? How should 
a child sit while sewing ? Should the work be fastened to the desk or knee ? 
Should you ever sew without a thimble ? Should the work or thread be put to the 
mouth ? Why ? In plain sewing where should you begin to sew ? In which hand 
should the part of the work not sewed be held? How should the thread be broken? 
How ought all sewing to be done ? Where should great care be taken ? What is 
called the sewing cushion ? 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



NEEDLES AND THREAD. 



Needles. — A needle is a small piece of steel, pointed at 
one end, and having an eye at the other to receive a 
thread. 

Needles are of various sizes and shapes, according to 
the uses for which they are intended. 

Three kinds of needles are used in sewing on cotton 
cloth, — sharps, ground-downs, and betweens ; the sizes 
range from No. i, the largest, to No. 12, the smallest. 
Sharps are long needles, ground-downs are shorter, and 
betweens are still shorter. Ground-downs are excellent 
for school use, as they do not bend or break easily. 
Betweens are used for heavy work. 

Worsted and darning needles are used for yarn, and 
are of different sizes. Worsted needles have a long eye, 
and either a sharp or a blunt point. A very long needle 
is used in millinery work. A bodkin or tape needle has a 
long eye, and is used for running tape into a hem or 
casing. 

Let us examine our paper of needles. It is assorted 
so that we may have needles suitable for all kinds of 
stitches. To open it, place a finger between the folds of 
the paper and separate them. Now, opening the sides 
and short ends which cover the needles, we find twenty- 
five needles in a secure case. Keep them in their places 
so that we may know the proper size to use for the thread 
or stitch. Beginning at the middle, we find three No. 5 
needles, which should be used only with very coarse 
thread ; they are suitable for sewing on boot-buttons, etc. 
The needles on each side are alike, so following down one 



NEEDLES AND THREAD. 5 

side, we find two No. 6 needles, used for sewing on coarse 
materials ; next are three No. 7 needles, suitable for hem- 
ming on towels, etc. ; then there are three No. 8 needles, 
for stitching ; next are two No. 9 needles, used in hem- 
ming cotton cloth ; and the last is a No. 10 needle, for 
very fine work. 

After taking out a needle, fold and tie up the paper so 
that none may drop out. Never use a bent needle, as it 
makes uneven stitches. In passing a needle, hand the 
eye of the needle to the person, keeping the point towards 
yourself. 

Thread. — A small twist made from flax, silk, cotton, or 
wool, is called thread. Thread made from flax is called 
linen thread, and is very strong. Thread made from silk 
is called silk or twist, and is used when sewing on nice 
textures. Cotton thread can be obtained in many num- 
bers, and is used when sewing on wash goods ; the finer 
the thread, the higher the number. Thread made from 
wool is called yarn, worsted, zephyr, etc., and is used for 
darning, canvas-work, and fancy-work. 

A new spool of thread can be unfastened by slipping a 
pin under the thread, where it is caught in the wood. To 
unwind the thread, hold the spool in the left hand, with 
the end of the thread between two fingers. Unwind the 
thread until it is of the required length. Break it by 
holding it securely in each hand, and snapping it across 
the ends of the thumbs. When not using a spool of 
thread, keep the end of the thread fastened in the 
wood. 

Use a piece of thread the length of the desk, or about 
as long as the arm. When using very fine thread, take 
a shorter needleful. If the thread kinks, remove the 



© SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

needle, and beginning at the work, draw the thread tightly^ 
between the thumb-nail and the end of the forefinger. 
To prevent thread from kinking, thread the needle with 
the end that hangs from the spool. When using double 
thread, as in gathering, sewing on buttons, etc., before 
making the knot, draw the double thread, beginning at 
the needle, across the wax. 

Threading the needle. — i. Sit erect, bringing the needle 
and thread as close to the eyes as necessary. 

2. Roll the end of the thread between the thumb and 
cushion of the forefinger, so as to twist it tightly. 

3. Hold the needle steadily between the thumb and 
forefinger of the left hand, with the eye a little above. 

4. Take the end of the thread between the thumb and 
forefinger of the right hand, letting about half-an-inch 
protrude, and put the thread through the eye of the 
needle. 

If preferred, the thread can be held in the left hand, 
and the eye of the needle passed over it. 

To aid in threading a round-eyed needle with worsted 
or loosely twisted thread, a few fibres of cotton-batting or 
a fine thread can be rolled over the end. Waxing the 
end of the thread before rolling it, is also helpful. 

Threading a long-eyed needle. — i . Hold the end of the 
zephyr between the left thumb and forefinger, allowing 
half-an-inch to show. 

2. Place the pointed end of the needle on the cushion 
of the forefinger, and over the zephyr. 

3. With the left thumb fold the end of the zephyr 
tightly over the needle. 

4. Withdraw the needle, and pass the eye of the 
needle over the loop of zephyr. 




NEEDLES AND THREAD. j 

Knots. — To make a knot, as in Fig. i, wind the thread 
around two or three fingers, 
I and crossing it, put the end 
through the loop. 

To bring a knot closs to the 
end of the thread. — i . With 
the thumb and forefinger of the Fig. I . — Showing the thread 
right hand, take hold of the '" ^ ^"°* '^'^^^^ '^ '^ ^^"^" ^P- 
thread a few inches from the end. 

2. Wind the end around the forefinger of the left hand, 
about midway of the finger-nail. 

3. Pressing tightly, roll the end of the thread down- 
ward on the side of the thumb, twisting it once or 
twice. 

4. Bring the second finger upon the thumb, and over 
the thread. 

5. Lifting the forefinger, draw up the thread with the 
right hand. 

The knot can also be made with the right hand. 

To fasten the thread in sewing, take two or three stitches 
in the same place, or sew back a few stitches. Fasten 
silk very securely as it is apt to work out. 

When learning to sew, it is best to use colored thi^ead 
on white cloth, as it makes the stitches plainer, and mis- 
takes are more easily seen. For colored work, choose 
thread or silk a shade darker than the material, as it will 
work lighter. Twist is twirled the opposite way from 
cotton thread. 

The size of the needle and thread to be used, depends 
upon the quality of the work. A coarse needle and thread 
are used for coarse work, and a fine needle and thread for 
fine work. 



8 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

The numbers of needles and thread needed for the 
different kinds of stitches in cotton cloth : — 
Hemming, 



No. 8 needle, No. 50 or 60 thread. 



^ , . I No. 9 needle. No. 70 or 80 thread. 

Tuckmg, ' ^ 

Running, 

Stitching, 

Overhanding, 

Overcasting, 

Button-holes, No. 7 or 8 needle. No. 40 or 50 thread. 

P , .' rNo. 7 or 8 needle, No. 36 or 40 thread. 

What is a needle ? Why is an assorted paper of needles necessary ? Why should 
they be kept in their places m the paper ? Why should the paper of needles be kept 
tied up ? How should a needle be passed to any one ? What is thread ? What is 
thread made from flax called ? What is thread made from silk called ? What is said 
about cotton thread? What is thread made from wool called? How is thread 
broken from the spool f How long a piece of thread should be used ? If it kinks 
what should be done ? Which end of the thread should be put into the needle ? 
What is done to the end of the thread before threading the needle? What part of 
the finger should the thread be wound around, in order to bring a knot close to the 
end of the thread ? How many times should the thread be twisted, when rolling it 
down the side of the thumb ? What is the next thing to do ? Next ? How is thread 
fastened in sewing? When should a coarse needle and thread be used? A fine 
needle and thread ? What size needle and thread should be used on cotton cloth for 
hemming ? tucking ? running ? stitching ? overhanding ? overcasting ? button-holes ? 
basting? gathering? 



CLOTH. 

Cloth is a fabric woven from cotton, wool, linen, or silk. 
Cotton is the cheapest, and silk the m.ost expensive in 
price. From cotton are made many qualities of un- 
bleached, half-bleached, and bleached cloth, also calicoes, 
ginghams, muslins, nainsooks, cambrics, etc. From wool 
are made flannels, cashmeres, and many varieties of dress 
goods. Linen cloth is made in all grades, from the finest 
linen lawn to heavy canvas ; it is generally used for 



CLOTH. 9 

collars, cuffs, handkerchiefs, table-cloths, napkins, towels, 
etc. Silk is made into dress-silks, ribbons, satins, vel- 
vets, etc. Soft, pliable, white cotton cloth (often called 
muslin) of medium quality is best for a beginner to use 
at first. 

The threads of the cloth are called the warp and the 
woof. The threads running lengthwise are the warp^ 
those running across from selvedge to selvedge are the 
woof ; both can be easily seen on a piece of coarse crash. 
The warp is usually stronger than the woof, and for this 
reason, any part of a garment requiring strength, should 
be cut lengthwise of the cloth. 

Cloth is woven straight, but is sometimes drawn out of 
shape by pressing. When you can ravel a thread the 
width or length of the cloth, it is straight, or will become 
so after washing. If it looks uneven, it can be drawn 
into place by stretching it on the bias. Calico, when 
torn, often looks very uneven, and should be pulled into 
shape. 

The selvedge of cloth is the finished lengthwise edge, 
and cannot be ravelled. The raw edge is the edge that 
is cut or torn. A fold is the edge made by doubling one 
part of the cloth over the other. The nap is the shaggy 
substance on the surface of the cloth. To tear a piece of 
cloth, cut in one inch by a thread, then, holding a corner 
of the cut between the thumb and forefinger of each 
hand, roll the edges from you, and tear steadily ; a fine 
piece of cloth must be torn carefully. 

What is cloth ? Name some kinds of cloth made from cotton ; from wool; from 
linen ; from silk. What are the threads of the cloth running lengthwise of the goods 
called ? Those running across ? How can you tell when a piece of cotton cloth is 
straight ? If it looks uneven, how can it be drawn into shape ? What is the selvedge 
of cloth ? The raw edge ? What is a fold ? How should a piece of cloth be torn ? 



lO 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



SCISSORS AND CUTTING. 

A pair of scissors is an instrument used for cutting, 
consisting of two blades crossing each other, and moving 
on a pivot. 

Scissors are of many sizes. Large scissors are called 
shears (Fig. 2, c), and small scissors with the ends of the 
blades rounded are called pocket scissors (Fig. 2, d), as 
they are convenient to carry in the pocket. In shears, 
the round bow is for the thumb, and the oval bow is for 
two of the fingers ; one blade is more pointed than the 
other, and when cutting this blade should be held down- 




Fig. 2. — a. Showing ladies' scissors; b, button-hole scissors 
c, shears ; d, pocket scissors. 



ward. In button-hole scissors (Fig. 2, b) a screw is 
attached to regulate the size of the button-hole. When 
passing scissors, hand the bows to the person, keeping 
the point towards yourself. 

In order to cut straight, draw out a thread of the cloth, 
and cut along the line thus made (for drawing a thread, 
see page 116). In materials from which a thread cannot 
be easily drawn, fold the cloth where it is to be cut, pin 
the selvedges together on each side, crease, and cut on 
the crease. In materials in which the threads are plainly 



SCISSORS AND CUTTING. 



II 



marked, either by plaids or stripes, there is no need of 
drawing a thread or folding the cloth. 








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Fig. 3. — Showing a bias cut. Fig. 4. — Showing an exact bias cut 

To cut bias, cut on a slanting line across both the warp 
and the woof. 

To cut an exact bias, lay the selvedge or a warp thread 
of the cloth, on a line with a woof thread, and cut on the 
fold. 

What is a pair of scissors ? Name the different kinds of scissors. How should 
shears be held ? How can cloth be cut straight ? How can it be cut when a thread 
Js not easily drawn? How is an exact bias cut? 



U- 



PART II. 



PLAIN SEWING. 

Jewing is work done with the needle and thread. 
The following directions should be before the pupil 
'during class work.^ 



1 


2 


3 


















1 1 


1 1 


ih ill 


A±Ai. 



Fig. 5. — Measure. 

The above represents a three inch rule, to use when 
certain measurements are required. The first inch is 
divided into halves and quarters, the second inch into 
eighths, and the third inch into sixteenths. 
Fractions of a yard: — 

3 feet or 36 inches is a yard. 

27 inches is three quarters of a yard. 

18 inches is one half of a yard. 

9 inches is a quarter of a yard, 

4)4 inches is an eighth of a yard. 

2^ inches is a sixteenth of a yard. 

How many inches in a yard ? Three quarters of a yard? One half? A quarter? 
An eighth ? A sixteenth ? 

^ The illustrations generally represent the stitches enlarged. 



14 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

DRILLS. 

Drill No. 1. — For practice in using the needle and 
thimble. 

Materials. — A needle and a thimble. 

Directions. — i . Place the thimble on the second finger 
of the right hand. 

2. Hold the pointed end of the needle between the end 
of the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. 

3. Place the thimble on the eye of the needle. 

4. Push the needle between the thumb and forefinger, 
being careful not to cramp the other fingers. 

5. With the left hand push the point back into its 
former position. 

6. Repeat until it can be done easily. 



Drill No. 2. — For practice in the motion of stitching, 
hemming, etc. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a strip of 
white cotton cloth. 




Pig. 6. — Showing the work and hands in position. 

Directions. — i . Thread the needle, but make no knot. 
2. Hold the cloth over the forefinger of the left hand. 



DRILLS. 



15 



keeping it in place with the thumb and second finger, as 
in Fig. 6. 

3. Hold the needle between the thumb and the fore- 
finger of the right hand. 

4. Insert the needle from right to left, taking up a 
little of the cloth, and push the needle nearly through. 

5. Take the pointed end of the needle between the 
thumb and cushion of the forefinger of the right hand. 

6. Draw the needle and thread through, bringing the 
thimble finger down near the forefinger, with the thread 
passing between the third and little fingers. Keep the 
little finger nearly straight to guide the thread. 

7. Repeat until the motion is learned. 



Drill No. 3. — For practice in the motion of basting, 
running, gathering, etc. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle. No. 50 thread, and a strip 
of cotton cloth. 




Fig. 7. — Showing the work and hands in position. 



i6 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



Directions. — l. Have the needle threaded, but make 
no knot. 

2. Hold the cloth between the thumb and forefinger 
of each hand, as in Fig. 7. 

3. With the right elbow away from the side, put the 
point of the needle through a few threads of the cloth, 
placing the thumb and forefinger of the right hand over it. 

4. Pressing the end of the thimble against the eye of 
the needle, take three or more stitches in the cloth over 
the cushion of the left forefinger, moving only the elbow 
joint. (Fig. 7.) 

5. Draw the needle and thread through as in Drill 
No. 2. 

6. Repeat until the motion is learned. 



Drill No. 4. — For practice in the motion of overcasting. 
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a folded 
ed^e of cotton cloth. 




Fig. 8. — Showing the work and hand in position. 

Directions. — i. Have the needle threaded, but make 
no knot. 



DRILLS. ly 

2. Hold the fold of the cloth slanting across the edge 
of the cushion of the left forefinger, keeping it in place 
with the thumb and second finger, as in Fig. 8. 

3. Put the needle in from the back of the fold, point- 
ing it towards the left shoulder. 

4. Draw the needle and thread through as in Drill 
No. 2. 



Drill No. 5. — For practice in the motion of over- 
handing. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a folded 
edge of cotton cloth. 




Fig. 9. — Showing the work and hand in position. 

Directions. — i. Have the needle threaded, but make no 
knot. 

2. Hold the fold of cloth horizontally along the edge 
of the cushion of the left forefinger, and around the end 
of the finger, keeping it in place with the thumb and 
second finger, as in Fig. 9. 



i8 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



3. Hold the right elbow away from the side, without 
bending the wrist, and so that the palm of the hand is 
towards you. 

4. Insert the needle from the back of the fold, point- 
ing it directly towards the chest. 

5. Draw the needle and thread through as in Drill 
No. 2. 

CANVAS-WORK. 

The stitches in sewing can be easily learnt on canvas, 
using bright-colored single or split zephyr, according to 
the quality of the canvas. 




Pig, 10. — Showing different stitches taken on canvas, 



CREASING AND PINCHING. 1 9 

Fig. 10 represents a corner of a square of canvas, with 
the stitches taken in the following order: — 

1. Uneven basting. 6. Catch-stitch. 

2. Running. 7. Button-hole stitch. 

3. Stitching. 8. Darning. 

4. Overcasting. 9. The edges are worked with 

5. Overhanding. the blanket or loop-stitch. 



CREASING AND PINCHING. 

A crease for sewing is made by folding the cloth, and 
pressing the edge until a line is made, which serves to 
sew on. 

Materials. — A ten-inch strip of bleached or half- 
bleached cotton cloth. (A more distinct line can be 
made on the bleached than on the half-bleached cotton 
cloth.) 




Fig. II. — Showing the position of the hands. 

Creasing. — i. Hold the cloth firmly with the hands as 
in Fig. II. 



20 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

2. Beginning at the upper right-hand end, of the cloth, 
turn down towards you the edge one-fourth of an inch in 
depth, for three or four inches. 

3. Holding the cloth tightly between the hands, crease 
the edge with the end of the thumb-nail and the cushion 
of the left forefinger, until it will remain flat and has a 
sharp edge. 

4. Fold and crease the next three inches in the same 
manner, and so continue to the end. 

5. Holding the right-hand corner of the fold firmly, 
crease the entire length. 

Pinching. — i . At the right end of the crease, lay a 
half-inch fold between the thumb and forefinger of the 
right hand. 

2. Lay another over this, and so on, until all the cloth 
is folded. 

3. Pinch the folds, and turn up the edge. 

4. Turn the other side of the cloth towards you, and 
the sharp edge will serve as a line to sew on. 

If the cloth has been well creased, pinching is seldom 
necessary. 

What is a crease? What purpose does it serve in sewing? How should you 
hold the cloth in creasing? At which end should you begin? How is the edge 
turned? How is it creased? How should the edge of the fold look? After the 
cloth has been once creased, what should be done to the entire length ? After 
turning up the edge, what should be done ? Why ? 



BASTING. 



21 



BASTING. 

Basting is done by taking long stitches to keep the 
cloth in place for sewing. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 colored thread, pins, 
and a half-yard strip of cotton cloth, with one of the long 
sides creased. 



lMm/^^\Wto.it(rmmmnnff-\\vm-mmmwjn^\mmi> 




Fig. 12. — Showing even basting stitches, needle inserted. 

In even basting, make the stitches short and alike on 
both sides. This method of basting is used for the seams 
of a dress-waist, or for several thicknesses of cloth. 




Fig. 13. — Showing uneven basting stitches, needle in position. 

In uneven basting, take stitches half-an-inch long on 
the upper side, and as small as possible on the under side. 
This is the proper basting for ordinary work, as the 
stitches serve for a guide in sewing. 



22 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



The basting, in Fig. 14, is done by taking one iDng 
and two short stitches alternately. 







Fig. 14. — Showing a method of basting used on heavy cloth, 
needle in the proper position for putting away the work. 

Basting. — Practise Drill No. 3 (page 15). 

1. Make a knot in the thread to hold it securely. 

2. Begin at the right-hand side of the cloth. 

3. Place the right-hand corners exactly together, hav- 
ing the sharp edge of the crease towards you. 




Fig. 15. — Showing the needle in position for beginning. 

4. Insert the needle on the crease one-eighth of an 
inch from the end of the cloth, and take up a few threads 
(Fig. 15). 

5. Let the needle remain in the cloth, and pin the 
opposite ends together, by placing a pin vertically through 
the cloth. 

6. Put a pin in the middle vertically. 



STITCHING. 23 

7. Draw the needle through, and proceed with the 
basting required, holding the work as in Fig. 7 (page 1 5), 
taking each stitch on the crease, and keeping the edges 
even. 

8. Fasten the thread securely by taking three or four 
stitches in the same place. 

Suggestions. — Never sew without basting, or when the 
threads are loose. If a child tries to sew without having 
the work basted, it will pucker, and must be ripped out. 
The short stitches on the under side keep the cloth in 
place, and prevent it from slipping. Take short basting 
stitches for hand work, but longer stitches may be taken 
for machine sewing. When learning to baste, only one 
stitch at a time should be taken, but later several stitches 
can be taken before drawing the needle through. Basting 
threads should be taken out when the work is finished. 

How is basting done ? How are the stitches made in even basting ? For what 
purpose is even basting used ? How should uneven basting stitches be taken ? 
What is the first step in basting ? Where begin ? What should be done to the 
corners ? How must the edges be held ? Where do you insert the needle ? Before 
drawing it through, what should be done ? Where should each stitch be taken ? 
How should the thread be fastened? What purpose do the short stitches on the 
under side serve ? When the work is finished, what should be done ? 



STITCHING. 

Stitching is done by taking a stitch backward on the 
upper side of the cloth, and a longer stitch forward on 
the under side, making the stitches meet. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle. No. 50 thread, and a half 
yard strip of cotton cloth, doubled and basted. 

Stitching. — Practise Drill No. 2 (page 14). 



24 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



1. Make a small knot in the thread. 

2. Hold the work over the cushion of the left fore- 
finger, as in Fig. 6 (page 14). 

3. Insert the needle at the right-hand corner of the 
cloth, between the edges of the seam, one-eighth of an 
inch from the end, and one thread of the cloth below the 
basting. 

4. Draw the needle and thread through. 

5. Put the point of the needle back a few threads from 
where the needle came through the cloth, and bring it 
out the same distance beyond. 




Fig. 16. — Showing the stitches. 

6. Continue, putting the needle back each time into 
the end of the last stitch. 

7. Make the stitches even and keep the seam straight 
(Fig. 16), leaving one thread of the cloth between the 
stitches and the basting. 

8. Fasten the thread, by inverting the cloth, and tak- 
ing a few stitches directly over the last ones made. 

9. Join the thread, by making a small knot, and con- 
cealing it in the seam; or by taking one stitch with the 
new thread, leaving half-an-inch of the thread to be 
brought to the left, and to be sewed over with the next 
few stitches, allowing it to wind in and out. 



HALF-BACKSTITCHING. 



25 



Suggestions. - — In the same manner sew all seams hav- 
ing raw edges, if a strain is coming on them, as in 
shoulder seams, the seams of drawers, etc. A bias seam 
should be sewed from the broad part to the narrow. 

How is stitching done ? How is the work held .? Where is the needle first 
inserted ? Where next ? Where is it brought out ? As you continue, where should 
the needle always be inserted? How should the stitches be made? How many 
threads of the cloth should be left between the basting and the stitches? How 
should the thread be fastened ? How should the thread be joined ? 



HALF-BACKSTITCHING. 




Showing the stitches and the needle in position. 

Half-backstitching is the same as stitching, except 
that the needle is put only half-way back, thus leaving a 
space between the stitches (Fig. 17). 

How does half-backstitching differ from stitching ? 



HEMMING. 

A hem is a fold, made by twice turning over the edge 
of a piece of cloth, and then sewing it down. 

Materials. — No. 9 needle, No. 70 thread, and a strip 
of cotton cloth. 



26 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



To prepare the hem, make a fold one-fourth of an inch 
wide, and crease; then fold again one-fourth of an inch 
deep and crease. Baste near the edge of the first fold 
with uneven basting stitches. For wider hems, have the 
first fold one-fourth of an inch wide, being careful to crease 
it thoroughly, as much depends upon this; crease the 
second fold the required width, which can be done evenly, 
by measuring every two inches with a paper or other 
measure. ' If a very wide hem is required, baste as you 
measure, first along the upper edge of the hem, and then 
along the lower edge. On woollen cloth, baste down the 
first narrow fold, then baste as for a hem on cotton cloth. 




Fig. I y. — Showing the needle in position for beginning the work. 



Hemming', — Practise Drill No. 2 (page 14). 

1. Have no knot in the thread. 

2. Hold the hem across the cushion of the left fore- 
finger, as in Fig. 6 (page 14). 

3. Pointing the needle from you, insert it at the edge 
of the fold, one-third of an inch from the right-hand end, 
and bring it out close to the end, as in Fig. 1 8. 

4. Carefully draw the needle through, leaving a little 
of the thread at the end, to be tucked under the hem with 



HEMMING. 



27 



the point of the needle, and to be sewed down with the 
first stitches. 

5. Take up one or two threads of the doth, and one 
or two threads of the fold, keeping the needle on a line 
with the hem, and pointing towards the left shoulder. 




Fig. 19. — Showing the work as it looks on the right side. 

6. Draw the needle out and continue, making the 
stitches close and slanting (Figs. 19 and 20). 

7. When the thread becomes too short for use, either 
cut or break it. 




Fig. 20. — Showing the work as it looks on the wrong side; and how to 
join the thread, the double line representing the old thread, and 
the black line the new thread. 

8. To join the thread (Fig. 20). If there is no end 
left of the thread, pick out a few stitches, always leaviitg 
the end betzveen the hem. With the needle, draw the end 
under the fold, and towards the thumb. Begin with a 



28 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

new needleful, as when commencing the work, putting 
the needle into the last hole the short end came out of, 
and sewing both ends down with the next stitches. 

9. At the end of the work, fasten the thread by taking 
two or three stitches over each other in the fold. 

Suggestions. — Hems should be begun and finished by 
neatly overhanding the ends of the fold. A narrow hem 
on stiff cloth, as on table linen, need not be basted. The 
seams of a garment should be sewed before hemming, to 
conceal the edges. Before turning the first fold, the 
end of the seam should be cut to avoid extra thicknesses 
and wear ; when basting the hem, seams or stripes 
should exactly match. In sewing, to hold a wide hem 
easily, fold it over and over until it is a convenient width. 

What is a hem ? How should the hem be folded ? Where and how should it be 
basted? How many times should a wide hem be basted? How many times should 
a wide hem on woollen cloth be basted ? Should there be a knot in the thread ? How 
is the hem held? How should the needle point? Where is the needle inserted? 
How should the thread be drawn through? What is done with the end? How is 
the stitch made? How should the needle be held? How should the stitches be 
taken? In joining the thread, where should the end of the old thread be left? 
Where should the end be drawn ? In, starting with a new needleful of thread, where 
should the needle be put ? What should be done with the two ends ? In fastening, 
where and how should the stitches be taken ? What should be done to the ends of a 
hem ? 



RUNNING. 

Running is done by passing the needle in and out of 
the material at regular intervals. 

The rule for running is to take up two threads of the 
cloth and pass over two threads, but the light in the aver- 
age school-room does not permit this, nor is it wise to 
strain the eyes trying to do so. The general principle is 
to pass over as much of the cloth as you take up. 



RUNNING. 



29 



Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a half- 
yard strip of cotton cloth, doubled and basted. 
Running. — Practise Drill No. 3 (page 15). 

1. Make a small knot in the thread. 

2. Hold the work in the left hand, between the thumb 
and cushion of the forefinger, as in Fig. 7 (page 15). 

3. Sew directly below the basting. 

4. Insert the needle between the edges of the seam, at 
the right-hand corner, and take the stitches (Fig. 21) over 
the cushion of the left forefinger, as in Drill No. 3 
(page 15). 







Fig. 21. — Showing the stitches, and the needle in position. 



5. Fasten, by putting the needle through to the under 
side, and taking two or three stitches in the same place. 

6. Join the thread, by sewing over the last stitches, or 
by making a knot and concealing it between the edges of 
the seam. 

Suggestions. — To avoid puckering in running, begin at 
the right hand and smooth the seam between the left 
thumb and forefinger. Running is used for seams, which 
do not require great strength, also for tucking. 

How is running done ? What is the principle to be followed in running ? How 
is the work held ? Where are the stitches taken ? Where is the needle inserted ? 
How should the stitches be taken? How should the thread be fastened? How 
should the thread be joined ? When is running used ? 



50 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



RUNNING AND A BACKSTITCH. 

Running and a backstitch consists of two or more run- 
ning stitches and a backstitch, taken alternately. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a half- 
yard strip of cotton cloth, doubled and basted. 







Fig. 22. — Showing the stitches, and needle in position for putting 
away the work. 

Running and a backstitch. — i . Begin as for running. 

2. Take three running stitches. 

3. Take one backstitch. 

4. Repeat, which will cause cv;.ry third and fourth 
stitch to meet (Fig. 22). 

Suggestions. — Another method is to take three running 
stitches, making the third twice the length of the others, 
and then, putting the needle back to the middle of the 
last stitch, proceed as before. In this manner, the stitches 
on the right side resemble running, but on the wrong side 
there is a slight difference. Running and a backstitch is 
used when the seam needs to be sewed a little stronger 
than by running. 

Of what does running and a backstitch consist ? When is running and a back« 
stitch used? 



OVERCASTING. 



31 



OVERCASTING. 

Overcasting is done by taking loose stitches over the 
raw edge of cloth, to keep it from ravelling. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, and a stitched 
strip of cotton cloth. 







Fig. 23. — Showing the stitcnes, and needle in position. 



Overcasting. — Practise Drill No. 4 (page 16). 

1. Find one-eighth of an inch and one-fourth of an 
inch on the measure (page 13). 

2. Place the thumb-nail on the cloth one-eighth of an 
inch below the raw edge. The stitches are to be of this 
depth, and twice as far, or one-fourth of an inch, apart. 

3. Make a small knot in the thread. 

4. Hold the work over the left forefinger, as in Fig. 8 
(page 16). 

5. Begin at the right-hand end of the seam. 

6. Insert the needle one-eighth of an inch below the 
edge, and between the edges of the seam, in order to hide 
the knot. 

7. Pointing the needle towards the left shoulder, take 



32 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

the next stitch one-fourth of an inch to the left, and over 
both edges of the cloth. 

8. Continue, taking up the same number of threads 
each time, being careful to make the spaces equal. 

9. Do not draw the stitches tightly, but let them lie 
loosely over the edge (Fig. 23). 

10. To fasten the thread, draw the needle nearly 
through the cloth where the next stitch should come. 
Turn over the cloth, withdraw the needle, and fasten the 
thread at this point, being careful that the stitches do 
not show on the right side. 

11. To join the thread, make a small knot in the new 
thread, and put the needle between the edges of the seam, 
through the little hole, which was made when the needle 
was withdrawn. 

Suggestions. — Before overcasting, take out the basting 
threads and trim the edges evenly. All seams whose 
edges ravel should be overcast, and, therefore, a selvedge 
seam does not need to be overcast. Overcasting is very 
difficult to do nicely. The above directions are for over- 
casting on underclothes, etc. In overcasting a dress 
waist, or any fine material, smaller stitches should be 
taken. A bias seam should be overcast from the broad 
part to the narrow, or with the grain of the cloth. 

What is overcasting ? How deep are the stitches taken ? How far apart ? How 
is the work held ? At which end is the work begun ? Where is the needle inserted ? 
Why ? How should the needle point ? How far to the left should the next stitch be 
taken ? How do you continue with the stitches ? How is the thread fastened ? How 
is the thread joined ? What should be done before overcasting ? When does a seam 
need to be overcast ? How is a bias seam overcast ? 



OVERHANDING. 



33 



OVERHANDING. 

Overhanding is done by sewing closely over two edges 
of cloth. The edge of the cloth may be either a selvedge 
or a creased fold. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, and either 
two selvedge strips or two folded strips of cotton cloth, 
carefully basted together with even stitches, near the 
edge. 




Fig. 24. — Showing overhanding stitches, needle in position. 



Overhanding. — Practise Drill No. 5 (page 1 7). 

1. Have no knot in the thread. 

2. Hold the work horizontally along the edge of the 
citshion of the left forefinger^ and around the end of 
the finger, as in Fig. 9 (page 17). 

3. Pointing the needle towards you, insert it at the 
edge nearest you, taking up two or three threads of 
the cloth. 

4. Carefully draw the thread through, leaving half-an- 
inch of the thread. 

5. Hold the half-inch of thread down with the thumb, 
so that it may be sewed over by the first stitches (Fig. 
26, a). 



34 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



6. Pointing the needle towards the chest, put it through 
both edges, taking up as little of the cloth as possible. 




Fig. 25, — Showing how the stitches should look on the under side, 
with the seam opened. 

7. Take the stitches at the side of the cushion, and 
make them close and even, having perpendicular lines on 
the under side of the seam (Fig. 25), and oblique lines 
across the edges (Fig. 24). 



*^» 




Fig. 26. — Showing, the edges of the seam being separated, how the 
end of the thread is fastened m beginning, how the stitches should 
look on the side towards you, and how to join the thread (the 
double line representing the old thread, and the black line the new 
thread). 



OVERHANDING. 



35 



8. Joining the thread (Fig. 26). When the thread 
becomes too short for use, draw the needle through the 
further edge of the cloth, as in taking a stitch. Insert 
the needle at the opposite edge, one-fourth of an inch to 
the left, taking up one thread of the cloth. Draw the 
thread through, and remove the needle. Have no knot in 
the new thread. Pointing the needle from you, insert it 
at the hole where the old thread is hanging. Draw the 
thread through until about an inch is left, and hold the 
end under the thumb. Pointing the needle towards you, 
insert it at the nearest edge, exactly opposite the last 
stitch on the other edge. Hold the ends under the 
thumb, while the threads along the top are being over- 
handed ; afterwards, cut the ends off. 




Fig. 27. — Showing another way of joining the thread. 



The thread can also be joined as in Fig. 27. If pre- 
ferred, a knot can be used by beginning back and sewing 
over a few stitches, and afterwards cutting off the knot. 

9. Finish the seam by turning the work around, and 
overhanding back four or five stitches ; this will fasten the 
thread securely. 

10. When the seam is finished, draw out the basting 
thread, open the seam, and rub it first on one side and 
then on the other with the thumb-nail until it is flat. 



36 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

Suggestions. — This stitch is sometimes called ''top- 
sewing," also *' over and over." The stitches should only 
be deep enough to hold, taking care to avoid making a 
ridge in the seam. The work will not pucker if the 
needle is pointed towards the chest, and the stitches are 
taken at the side of the cushion, not around the end of the 
finger. The necessity of taking the stitches properly is 
shown by overhanding two pieces of striped cloth. Either 
side of the sewing may be used as the right side. A seam 
in stiff material can be pressed open by holding it between 
the thumb and forefinger of each hand and rubbing. 

How is overhanding done ? How should the work be held ? How and where should 
the needle be inserted ? What should be done with the end of the thread ? How are 
the stitches made? Mention one way of joining the thread. How should the seam 
be finished .? What is done after the seam is finished ? 



GATHERING AND PLACING OF GATHERS. 

Gathering is done by running the needle in and out of 
the cloth, passing over twice as much cloth as is taken up. 
It is used in joining a full part to a plain part, as an apron 
to a band. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, and a large blunt-pointed 
needle. No. 40 thread, and a piece of cotton cloth half-a- 
yard long and seven inches wide, hemmed at the sides 
and lower edge, and creased at the top. 

Gathering. — Practise Drill No. 3 (page 15). 

I. Find the middle of the creased edge, and mark the. 
place by cutting a small notch in the edge (Fig. 28), or 
by making a cross-stitch with colored thread, one inch 
from the edge (Fig. 28). 



GATHERING. 



37 



2. Use a single or double thread a little longer than 
the space to be gathered. A double thread helps to keep 
the gathers in place, but is more apt to knot than a single 
thread. 

3. Make a good- sized knot in the thread, so that it 
cannot slip through the cloth. 

4. With the right side of the cloth towards you, hold 
the work in the left hand, between the thumb and cushion 
of the forefinger, as in Fig. 7 (page 15). 

5. Insert the needle on the wrong side, so as to conceal 
the knot, and through the hem to keep the knot secure. 




Fig. 28. — Showing the middle marked by a notch and by a cross- 
stitch, also showmg gathering stitches. 



6. Sew on the crease, taking several stitches before 
drawing the needle through. 

7. Do not count the threads, but take up about half as 
many as you skip, i.e., take up two threads and pass over 
four threads (Fig. 28). 

8. If a knot, that cannot be untied, comes in the gather- 
ing thread, you will have to begin again. 

9. When the seam is finished, remove the needle from 
the thread, and make a knot in this end of the thread. 



38 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



10. Put a pin in vertically, close to the last stitch, tak- 
ing up a few threads of the cloth. 

11. Carefully draw up the cloth, but not too tightly. 



■■'f'-?. 



imilihmimmim 



Fig. 29. — Showing the thread drawn up, and fastened around a pin. 

12. Wind the thread over the top, and under the point 
of the pin a number of times, crossing the thread at the 
middle of the pin (Fig. 29). 




Fig. 30. — Showing the placing of gathers with a large blunt needle. 



Placing" or stroking^ of gathers. — i . With the right side 
towards you, begin at the /^/-hand edge. 



GATHERING. 39 

2. Hold the work between the left thumb and fore- 
finger, as in Fig. 30, keeping the thumb below the 
gathering thread. 

3. Put the point of the large needle under the gather- 
ing thread, holding it obliquely. 

4. Press the needle towards the thumb, bringing the 
little plait uncter the thumb, and drawing the needle 
downwards. 

5. Pinch it down tightly. 

6. Continue in this way, putting the needle under each 
stitch. 

Suggestions. — The part to be gathered should be divided 
into halves, quarters, or eighths, according to the "Vidth. 
When the part is only divided into halves, a notch may be 
avoided by beginning the gathering in the middle. 

In placing, the eye of the needle can be used instead of 
a blunt-pointed needle. The upper part of the gathers 
often need a stroke of the needle. If a scratching sound 
is made in placing, marks are apt to be left, and the cloth 
torn. In thin, stiff materials, instead of placing, many 
stitches can be taken on the needle at once, and before 
drawing the needle through, push them close together ; 
holding firmly, pull them into place and press them. 

How is gathering done? When is it used? How is the cloth prepared ? How 
long a thread should be used ? What kind of a knot is required ? How is the work 
held ? How are the stitches taken ? What is done after the seam is finished ? How 
should the thread be drawn? How should the thread be wound? At which end 
should stroking begin? How is the work held in stroking? Where should the 
needle be put ? What is done next ? 



40 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



DOUBLE GATHERING OR GAUGING. 

Double gathering is done by making two rows of 
gathering, with the stitches of the second row directly 
under those of the first. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, and two 
pieces of cotton cloth, each half-a-yard long and seven 
inches wide, hemmed at the sides and lower edge. 




Fig. 31. — Showing double gathering on single material 



Double gathering on single material. — i . Gather one- 
fourth of an inch from the raw edge. 

2. When the end is reached, remove the needle, but do 
not draw up the thread. 

3. Make a crease one-fourth of an inch below the 
gathering. 

4. On the crease make another row of gathering, taking 
eacJi stitch directly belozv the ofie above it (Fig. 31). 

5. Remove the needle. 

6. Take hold of both threads near the cloth, and 
gradually draw the gathers up to the required width. 



DOUBLE GATHERING. 4 1 

Double gathering which is to be overhanded on to a binding. 

— I. Find the middle of the cloth, and mark it one and 
a half inches from the raw edge by a cross-stitch. 

2. Crease one inch from the raw edge of the cloth, and 
let it remain folded. 

3. Make two or more rows of gathering, the first row 
being one-eighth of an inch from the edge of the fold. 

Suggestions. — When double gathering is used, there is 
no need of placing. Double gathering should be used on 
woollen materials, and quite long stitches be taken, if there 
is much fulness. Where the gathers are large, the second 
row can be easily made by closely drawing up the first 
gathering thread, and inserting the needle through many 
gathers at once. 

How is double gathering done ? How far from the edge should the first row, in 
single material, be made? In double material? How is the middle of the cloth 
marked for double gathering, that is to be overhanded to a binding ? 



42 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



SHIRRING. 

Shirring is done by making several rows of running, 
parallel with each other. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, and a piece 
of cotton cloth half-a-yard long and twelve inches wide. 
The cloth should be folded lengthwise and basted. 




^^TT^^l^ni 






WW; 



l\ 



It 



llll'IP'IMi 




Fig. 32. — Showing shirring, and the stitches. 

Shirring. — i . Begin as in running. 

2. Make the required number of rows at the desired 
distances from each other (Fig. 32). 

3. Draw the gathers up on the threads, or by cords 
run between the rows. 



How is shirring done ? How are the gathers drawn up? 



SCALLOPED EDGE. 43 

SCALLOPED EDGE. 

A scalloped edge is used as a fancy heading for fulness. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, a strip of soft 
woollen cloth, and strong silk or thread to match in color. 

Scalloped edge. — i . Fold one of the lengthwise edges 
five-eighths of an inch from the edge, and baste close to 
the raw edge. 

2. On the wrong side, and beginning at the right-hand 
end, mark the outer edge of the fold into inches with a 
colored pencil. 




Fig. 33. — Showing a scalloped edge. 

3. Half-an-inch below the outer edge of the fold, and 
beginning half-an-inch from the right-hand end, make 
another row of dots one inch apart. These dots should 
be midway between those of the upper row. 

4. Make a good-sized knot, and inserting the needle at 
the upper right-hand dot, take small running stitches, 
slanting up and down, from dot to dot (Fig. 33). 

5. Carefully draw up the thread every few inches. 

For what is a scalloped edge used ? What kind of stitches are taken ? 



44 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



HONEY-COMBING OR SMOCKING. 

Honey-combing is drawing fulness together for orna- 
mental effect. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, a piece of fine woollen cloth 
eleven inches long and three and a half inches wide, silk 
to match, and a red and a blue pencil. 











o 



Od 



0^ 



<>Q<>Q<>Q<><:Q<>a 



O6060606O 



Fig. 34.- — Showing how to mark the cloth, diamonds representing red 
dots, and circles blue dots. 

Honey-combing. — i. On the right side of the cloth, and 
beginning at one end, mark the entire length, as in Fig. 
34, placing red dots in the place of diamonds, and blue 
dots in the place of circles. 




Fig. 35, — Showing honey-combing begun, needle in position. 



HONEV-COMBING. 



45 



2. Drawing the needle through from underneath at a 
(Fig. 34), take up a few threads of the cloth at b (Fig. 34), 
and fasten a and b together with two or three over and 
over stitches (Fig. 35, a). 

3. Passing the needle underneath, bring it out at the 
next red dot (Fig. 34, c)^ and fasten c and d together. 




Fig. 36. — Showing diamond honey-combing: 

4. Continue to the end of the row, fastening together 
the red dots which are connected in Fig. 34. 

5. Beginning the second row at the right, fasten 
together, in a similar manner, the blue dots (circles, 
Fig. 34)- 



46 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



6. Work the third row as the first, and the fourth row 
as the second, and so continue (Fig. 36). 

Suggestions. — In honey-combing, exactness is required 
in marking the spaces. Instead of colored pencils, the 
dots may be marked with thread or chalk. To keep the 
honey-combing in position, the outer edges should be 
fastened to a lining, after it is finished. 

What is honey-combing ? Where is exactness required in honey-combing ? How 
is honey-combing kept in position ;vhen finished ? 



BINDINGS, 

A binding or band is used to strengthen and cover the 
raw edges of a seam. 

Binding No. 1. — Sewed by stitching and hemming. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle. No. 50 thread, pins, scissors, 
and a piece of cotton cloth half-a-yard long and seven 




Fig. 37. — Showing the corners of the binding cut, and the middle 
of the edges nnarl<ed by notches and a cross-stitch. 



inches wide, notched in the middle, gathered and stroked 
(page 36); for the binding, a piece of cloth eight inches 
long and three inches wide. 



BINDINGS. 47 

Preparations. — i . Find the middle of the band, and 
mark the place by cutting a notch (Fig. 37) at the edge of 
each side, or by taking a cross-stitch (Fig. 37) with 
colored cotton. 

2. Cut off each corner of the band one-fourth of an 
inch deep (Fig. 37), to avoid having many thicknesses of 
cloth, when the corners are turned. 

3. Loosen the gathering thread. 




Fig. 38. — Showing half of the gathers basted and stitched. 

4. Holding the wrong side of the gathered piece to- 
wards you, place the middle of the band at the notch in the 
middle of the gathers, and put in a pin vertically, to hold 
them together (Fig. 38). 

5. Pin the ends of the gathers one-foiirtJi of aii inch 
from each end of the band. 

6. Tighten or loosen the gathering thread, so that the 
length of the gathered edge exactly matches that of the 
band. 



48 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

7. Fasten the gathering thread by winding it around 
the pin. 

8. With the point of the needle adjust the gathers, so 
that the fulness is evenly distributed along the band. 

9. Holding the gathers towards you, baste, with small 
stitches, a little above the gathering thread. 

Stitching. — i. Stitch the gathers to the band, exactly 
over the gathering thread, taking up only one gather at a 
time (Fig. 38). 

2. Take out the pins, as you come to them. 

3. If, when sewing, the gathering thread should be too 
short, loosen it by unwinding it from the pin. 

4. When the band is stitched on, fasten the thread 
securely, cut off the gathering thread and take out the 
basting thread. 

Hemming. — i . Turn up the band, and crease the oppo- 
site edge and the two ends, one-fourth of an inch deep. 

2. Cut off the corners of the gathers above the 
stitching. 

3. Fold the band over to the line of stitching, 

4. Pin the middle of the folded edge to the middle of 
the line of stitching. 

5. Pin the ends, being careful to have the corners 
exactly together. 

6. Baste the band down, keeping the edge of the fold 
directly over the stitching. 

7. Overhand each end, beginning at the gathers. 

8. Hem the band down, taking a stitch in each gather, 
a little below the stitching. Do not allow the stitches to 
show on the right side. 

Suggestions. — A binding should be cut lengthwise of 
the cloth, when strength is required, or where much wear 



BINDINGS. 



49 



is coming, as on underclothing. A narrow binding for 
finishing a garment should be cut on the bias. The 
binding and gathering should be equally divided by 
notches, so that there may be no. more fulness in one 
part than in another. If there are but few gathers, half- 
backstitching can be used instead of stitching. Great 
care should be taken to have the ends of the band neat ; 
some prefer to turn the ends of the band under before 
stitching, others stitch the ends of the band together, 
before putting it on to the gathers. 

Binding No. 2. — Sewed by setting-in the gathers. 
Materials. — Same as for Binding No. i . 



x^ 



k^^-_:JJ^^"^-^l 




Fig. 39, — Showing gathers set into a band. 



Preparations. — i. Mark the middle of the band by a 
cross-stitch, and cut off the corners, as in Fig. 37. 

2. Crease the four edges of the band. 

3. Baste and overhand the ends, beginning at the 
corners. 

4. Loosen the gathering thread. 



50 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

5. Hold the right side of the gathers towards you. 

6. Pin the middle of one edge of the band to the mid- 
dle of the gathers, and exactly over the gathering thread 

(Fig. 39, ^). 

7. Pin the ends of the gathers, inside the ends of the 
band (Fig. 39, a and c). 

8. Draw up or loosen the gathering thread, so that it 
is the same length as the band, and fasten around the pin. 

9. Arrange the gathers with the needle. 

10. Baste the band on, so that the gathering thread is 
covered. 

Setting-in of gathers. — i • Begin as for hemming, but 
make the stitch vertical on the side towards you. 

2. Take up, close below the gathering thread, one 
gather and then a thread or two of the band (Fig. 39). 

3. Take the next stitch by inserting the needle into 
the next gather (which should be directly under the 
place where the thread comes out of the band) and at the 
same time take up a thread of the band. 

4. Take a stitch in each gather. 

5. When this side is finished, fasten securely, and cut 
off the gathering thread. 

6. Baste and sew the under part of the band in the 
same manner, taking care that the edge of the band 
corresponds exactly with the edge on the opposite side, 
in order that the band may not be twisted. 

7. Do not let these stitches show on the right side. 
Suggestions. — The shape of the stitch is like the letter 

N, as in overhanding, but the slant here is underneath, 
while in overhanding it is on the top. A binding is 
more easily sewed on in this manner, if there is a double 
row of gathering. To strengthen a binding, where a 



BINDINGS. 5 I 

button is to be placed, turn in one inch at the end of the 
band before folding it, and baste pieces of cloth on the 
under side where other buttons are to be placed ; at the 
button-hole end, turn in half-an-inch. Cut a button-hole 
in a binding nearer the gathers than the folded edge, so 
that the garment will be held in place firmly. 

Binding No. 3. — Sewed by overhanding. 

Materials. — Same as for Binding No. i, with the larger 
piece of cloth gathered for overhanding to a binding 
(page 41). 



Fig. 40. — Showing gathers overhanded, with needle in position. 

Preparations. — i . Mark the middle of the band by a 
cross-stitch, and cut off the corners, as in Fig. ij . 

2. Crease the four edges of the band. 

3. Double each end, and beginning at the corners, 
overhand both ends. 

4. Baste the lengthwise edges together. 



52 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

5. Pin the middle of the band at the middle of the 
right side of the gathers (Fig. 40). 

6. Pin the ends of the gathers and band together. 

7. Draw up or loosen the gathering threads, until they 
are of the same length as the band, and fasten around the 
pin. 

8. Arrange the gathers with the needle, and put in 
pins vertically every two inches. 

Overhanding'. — i . Holding the band towards you, over- 
hand the gathers to the band placing a stitch in each 
gather. 

2. Take out the pins, as you come to them. 

3. Fasten the gathering threads. 

For what is a binding used? In what three ways can a binding be sewed on? 
How can the middle of tha band be marked ? What should be done to the corners 
of the band ? Why ? Where should the gathered piece and band be pinned together ? 
What should be done to the gathering thread ? How is it fastened ? How should the 
gathers be adjusted ? How basted ? Where and how should the gathers be stitched ? 
How is the band prepared for hemming ? Where should the band be pinned ? How is 
the band basted ? What should be done at each end ? Where should the hemming 
stitches be taken ? When is a binding cut lengthwise ? What should be done to the 
ends of a band before setting-in the gathers ? How should the band be basted to the 
gathers ? What letter should the stitch resemble ? How can a band be strengthened, 
where buttons are to be placed ? 



FACINGS OR FALSE HEMS. 

A facing is a fold applied to the edge of a garment for 
protection and finish, and has the appearance of a hem. 

Materials. — No. 8 and No. 9 needles. No. 50 and No. 
70 thread, pins, and two pieces of cotton cloth, one piece 
six inches long and four inches wide, the other piece, for 
the facing, six inches long and two inches wide. 



BUTTON-HOLES. 53 

Facing. — i . Place the facing lengthwise on the piece 
of cloth, and pin the ends together. 

2. Baste them together one-fourth of an inch from the 
edge. 

3. Half-backstitch under the basting. 

4. Take out the basting thread. 

5. Fold the wrong sides together, and crease the cloth 
one or two threads beyond the seam, that the seam may 
not show on the edge. 

6. Crease the opposite edge of the facing one-fourth of 
an inch deep. 

7. Pin the ends of the cloth and facing evenly together. 

8. Baste and hem. 

Suggestions. — A facing which requires strength should 
be cut lengthwise. A narrow facing for a rounded edge, 
as the neck of a garment, should be cut on the bias, so 
that it may be stretched when being hemmed. A false hem 
can be used, when the material is not long enough to allow 
a hem. 

What is a facing ? What is its use ? How should it first be sewed ? How next ? 
When can a false hem be used ? 



BUTTON-HOLES. 

A button-hole is a slit cut and worked in a garment to 
admit a button. 

Button-Hole Stitch for Beginners. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle. No. 40 colored thread, and a 
folded and basted strip of cotton cloth. 

Button-hole stitch. — i . Make a small knot in the thread. 



54 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

2. Place the folded edge of the cloth across the cushion 
of the forefinger of the left hand, allowing the tip of the 
finger to show (Fig. 41). 

3. Hold the cloth firmly, keeping the end of the thumb 
near the folded edge. 

4. Work from you, instead of towards you, 

5. Draw the needle through from underneath, close to 
the folded edge of the cloth, which will bring the thread 
into position for the stitch. 

6. Again insert the needle one-eighth of an inch from 
the edge, and exactly back of its first position. 




Fig. 41 . — Showing the work in position, and button-hole stitches. 

7. Let the needle remain half-way through the cloth, 
and pointing towards you. 

8. Take the two threads at the eye of the needle, bring 
them towards you at the right of the needle, then under 
the point of the needle and from you (Fig. 44). 

9. Pull the needle out, drawmg the thread so that the 
twist or purl comes at the top of the folded edge of the 
cloth (Fig. 41). 

ID. One-eighth of an inch beyond take another stitch 
in the same manner. 



BUTTON-HOLES. 55 

11. So continue, making the stitches even. 

12. When the thread becomes too short to use, turn to 
the other side of the cloth, and fasten lightly at the side 
of the last stitch, and away from the purl. After thread- 
ing the needle, insert it beside of the last stitch, drawing 
it towards the purl. Turn to the right side, and draw the 
needle up through the last purl, and proceed with the 
button-hole stitch. 

What is the first thing to be done ? Where should the folded edge of the cloth be 
placed ? What part of the forefinger shows ? How should the cloth be held ? In 
which direction do you work? Where is the first stitch taken? Why? How far 
from the edge is the needle next inserted? How far through the cloth should the 
needle be brought? How should it point? What is done with the two threads? 
When the thread is drawn out, where should the twist or purl come ? How much 
should be left between the stitches ? 

Button-Holes. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle. No. 40 colored thread, button- 
hole scissors, a medium-sized button, and a folded and 
basted strip of cotton cloth. 




Fig. 42. — Showing the work in position. 

The instructions are given in the following order : 

1. Cutting. 4. Button-hole stitch. 

2. Barring. 5. Finishing. 

3. Overcasting. 6. Joining the thread. 



56 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



Cutting. — Cut the slit by a thread of the cloth, one- 
fourth of an inch from the folded edge, and a little longer 
than the diameter of the button. 

Barring. — i . Make a small knot in the thread. 

2. With the folded edge from you, place the slit across 
the cushion of the left forefinger (Fig. 42). 

3. Hold the slit firmly between the thumb and fore- 
finger, and slanting as in Fig. 42. 

4. Work from you, beginning at the end farthest fivm 
the folded edge of the cloth. 




Fig. 43. — A, showing the barring of a button-hole; B, showing the 
overcasting of a button-hole; C, showing a finished button-hole; 
Z>, showing a button-hole on heavy cloth. 



5. Draw the needle through from underneath, at the 
left of the slit, and three or four threads from the raw 
edge, a (Fig. 43, A). 

6. Turn the cloth, so that the folded edge is towards 
you. 

7. Insert the needle at b (Fig. 43, A), and bring it out 
at c, taking up three or four threads of the cloth at each 
side of the slit. 

8. Again insert the needle at b, and bring it out at c. 
This makes a side and end barring. 



BUTTON-HOLES. 



57 



9. Turn the cloth, and bar the other side and end in 
the same manner, i.e., inserting the needle at d, bring it 
out at a, and repeat. This brings the needle to the start- 
ing point. 

Overcasting. — i. Hold the barring tightly near the 
edge of the slit. 

2. Taking up three or four threads of the cloth, over- 
cast one side, making the stitches over the barring and 



















































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Fig. 44. — Showing button-hole stitches, Fig, 45. — Showing a finished 
enlarged, needle and thread in posi- button-hole, enlarged, 

tion. The straight lines represent 
the threads of the cloth. 



one-eighth of an inch apart. Bring the needle at the last 
stitch into the corner, where the side and end barrings 
meet, b (Fig. 43, B). 

3. Turn the cloth, and take one overcasting stitch in 
the opposite corner, c (Fig. 43, B). 

4. Overcast the remaining side and end in the same 



58 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

manner, which will again bring the needle to the starting 
point. 

Button-hole stitch or purl. — i . Draw the needle half- 
way through at the left side, and one thread beyond, 
taking up about four threads of the cloth. 

2. With the needle pointing towards you, take the two 
threads at the eye of the needle, and bring them towards 
you at the right of the needle, then under the point of 
the needle and from you (Fig. 44). 

3. Draw the needle and thread out, at right angles to 
the slit, and so that the twist or purl comes at the top edge 
of the slit (Fig. 44). In making the purl, the thread will 
form the figure eight (8). 

4. Continue in this manner, leaving a thread of the 
cloth between each stitch, and make the stitches even. 

5. Take seven or eight stitches across the outer end 
(Fig. 45), drawing the purl towards the folded edge, and 
making either a square or round end. The greatest wear 
from the button comes here. 

6. Holding the folded edge of the cloth towards you, 
work the second side until close to the end barring. 

If, in taking the button-hole stitch, you fail to put the 
thread around the needle, the stitch can be picked 
up, by leaving a small loop, and, with the thread be- 
yond it, passing the needle from underneath through 
the loop. 

Finishing. — i . Without turning the cloth, draw the 
needle down through the first button-hole stitch taken, 
bringing it up on the opposite side, where the side and 
end barrings meet. 

2. Draw this stitch so tightly as to bring the sides 
close together. 



BUTTON-HOLES. 59 

3. Make a barring exactly over the one already there, 
which will leave the thread at the left side. 

4. Holding the thread under the left thumb, draw the 
needle under the two end barrings and over the thread, 
which will form the loop stitch. 

5. Take another loop stitch in the middle of the bar- 
ring and one in the right hand corner. 

6. Draw the needle down through the cloth close to tJie 
purl of the last loop stitch, and fasten on the wrong side. 

Joining the thread. — i . If the thread should prove too 
short, put the needle through the slit, and turn to the 
other side of the cloth. 

2. Fasten lightly beside the last stitch. 

3. After threading the needle, insert it beside the last 
stitch, drawing it towards the purl. 

4. Turning the right side towards you, draw the needle 
up through the last purl, and proceed with the button- 
hole stitch. 

Suggestions. — On materials that ravel, make two par- 
allel rows of stitching, and cut between the rows ; or the 
place may be dampened with glue and cut when dry. It 
is important to remember when making a button-hole, to 
work from you and begin at the end farthest from the 
edge. Try to keep the slit straight and not to press it 
out of shape. Some hold the slit horizontally on the 
forefinger. The distance that the button-hole is cut from 
the edge, depends upon the garment. The side of the 
garment in which the button-hole is made, is a matter of 
choice, but it is wise to decide upon one side and adhere 
to it. In woollen goods a triangle of a few threads of the 
cloth can be cut out of the end nearest the edge, or the 
end can be rounded. 



60 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

The barring strengthens the button-hole and keeps it 
in place. If a great strain comes on the button-hole, put 
a double barring around. 

Some prefer to overcast before barring, but the over- 
casting stitches are helpful in keeping the barring in 
place. When the overcasting is done first, take the over- 
casting stitches on the under or wrong side, thus securing 
the under edge, which is very apt to pull away in working. 
A material, that does not ravel, need not be overcast. 

A button-hole can be finished by taking button-hole 
stitches in the loop, or on heavy goods by sewing closely 
over and over the barring. In a button-hole, where a 
strain comes on the sides, as in the front of a shirt, work 
both ends as in finishing an ordinary button-hole. 

Always try to have the thread long enough to finish 
working the button-hole. For a very large button-hole, 
take a new piece of thread, when beginning on the button- 
hole stitch. On woollen cloth, button-hole twist should 
be used. On heavy goods, a cord is used instead of 
barring. 

What is a button-hole ? What is its use ? Give the order in which the instruc- 
tions for button-hole making are given. 

Cutting. — How should the slit be cut ? 

Barring. — Where should the slit be placed and how held? In which direction 
do you work ? At which end do you begin ? Where is the needle inserted ? What 
should be done next ? What stitch is taken by following the directions for the end 
barring ? How is the other side and end barred ? Where will this bring the needle ? 

Overcasting. — How should the barring be held? How is the first side over- 
cast ? How is the end overcast ? How is the needle brought to the starting point ? 

Button-hole stitch. — Where and how should the needle be inserted ? How 
many threads of the cloth are taken up ? In what direction should the needle point ? 
What is now done with the two threads ? How are the needle and thread drawn 
out ? Where should the twist or purl come ? What figure is formed by the thread, 
in making the purl? How many threads of the cloth should be left between the 
stitches ? How should the outer end be worked ? Where doe? the greatest wear 
come? How should the cloth be held in working the second side? How can a 
button-hole stitch be picked up ? 

Finishing. — What is done with the needle ? How should this stitch be drawn ? 



BUTTONS. 



6l 



Where is the second barring made ? How is the loop stitch formed ? Where are 
the other loop stitches taken ? Where should the needle be drawn, to fasten the 
thread ? 

Joining the thread. — What is done if the thread proves too short? After 
threading the needle, where should it be inserted ? Where is it next brought ? 

Why is barring used ? Is a material, that does not ravel, overcast ? How long a 
thread should be taken ? 



BUTTONS. 

A button is a catch of metal or other substance, by 
"i^hich a garment is fastened. 

Materials. — No. 7 and No. 8 needles, No. 36 and No. 50 
thread, a pin, a four-holed button, and a folded and basted 
piece of cotton cloth. 




Fig. 46. — a. Showing the sewingof a two-holed button, pin in position ; 

b, showing the sewing of a four-holed button, pin in position ; 

c, showing the sewing of a boot-button. 

Buttons. — I . Make a pin-hole, where the button is to be 
placed. 

2. Stitch with the fine needle and thread a very small 
circle around the pin-hole, or a cross at the pin-hole, to 
keep both sides of the cloth in place. 

3. Having the coarse thread double, make a knot. 

4. Draw the needle through the pin-hole from the upper 
side, to conceal the knot under the button. 

5. Bring the needle partly through, close to the knot. 

6. Place the button on the needle, and draw the needle 
and thread through. 



62 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

♦ 

7. Place the pin across the top of the button (Fig. 46, 
b), to lengthen the stitches ; and take the first stitch 
across the button, at right angles with the edge of the 
cloth. 

8. Sew securely through and through the holes, making 
a cross on the button, and two parallel lines on the wrong 
side of the cloth. 

9. Remove the pin, which will loosen the stitches. 

10. Inserting the needle from underneath, bring it out 
between the button and cloth, close to the centre of the 
button. 

1 1 . Wind the thread tightly around the stitches three 
or four times, to form a neck for the button ; thus allow- 
ing room for the thickness of the button-hole. 

12. Fasten the thread on the under side of the cloth. 
Suggestions. — In sewing on a two-holed button, the 

stitches should be taken at right angles with the edge of 
the cloth (Fig. 46, a), to avoid stretching the end of the 
button-hole. A button with a loop, as a boot-button, 
should be sewed with the stitches taken parallel with the 
edge (Fig. 46, c) ; this will bring the wear on the loop of 
the button. 

The button-holes should be made first. To mark the 
places for the buttons, lay the right sides of the garment 
together, and put pins through the outer ends of the 
button-holes ; taking great care to have the pins exactly 
opposite the button-holes. 

What is a button ? What is its use ? How should the place for a button be pre- 
pared? What kind of thread should be used? How should the needle be inserted? 
Why ? What is placed across the top of the button ? How is the button sewed on ? 
How is the neck of the button formed ? Why ? How should the stitches be taken in 
sewing on a two-holed button ? How on a button with a loop? How are the places 
for the buttons marked on a garment ? 



EYELET-HOLES. 



63 



EYELET-HOLES. 



An eyelet is a hole made and worked in a garment, to 
receive a small cord or the loop of a button. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, a stiletto, and 
a piece of cloth folded and basted. 

Eyelet-holes. — i. Pierce the 
cloth with the stiletto, breaking 
as few threads as possible. 

2. Holding the hole tightly 
over the cushion of the left fore- 
finger, work it over and over 
with very close, even stitches 
(Fig. 47, a). 

3. When working on a line 
with the threads of the cloth, use 
great care to take the stitches 
close and deep enough, 

4. Use the stiletto occasionally 
to keep the hole round. 

Suggestions. — To make a large 
eyelet-hole, mark the circle by 
twice running a thread around 
the desired size (Fig. 47, b); then 
carefully cut out the centre, turn 

the edge of the material under, and work the edge over 
and over or with button-hole stitches (Fig. 47, c). 

On woollen materials, use silk or twist. An eyelet-hole 
can be worked with the button-hole stitch. 




Fig. 47. — a, Showing a small 
eyelet-hole ; l>, showing a 
large eyelet-hole, marked 
by running stitches ; c, 
showing a large eyelet- 
hole finished. 



What is an eyelet-hole ? What is its use ? With what do we make an eyelet-hole ? 
How should the eyelet-hole be held and worked .'' Where should care be taken 1 



64 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



HOOKS AND EYES. 

A hook is a hard material, bent for holding or fasten- 
ing. An eye is a small round catch to receive the hook. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, a medium- 
sized hook and eye, and two folded and basted pieces of 
cotton cloth. 




Fig. 48. — Showing a hook and eye sewed on. 



Eyes. — I. Make a knot in the thread. 

2. Place the loop of the eye a little beyond the folded 
edge of one of the pieces of cloth. 

3. Hold the loop firmly between the left thumb and 
forefinger. 

4. Beginning at the further side, overhand closely the 
two circles of the eye (Fig. 48), being careful not to let 
the stitches show on the right side. 

5. Take three stitches over each other at each side of 
the eye, near the edge of the cloth (Fig. 48, a). 

6. Fasten very securely. 

Hooks. — I . Taking the other piece of cloth, lap the 
two pieces as desired. 

2. Put the hook into the eye already sewed on, and 
place it in position. 



LOOPS. 65 

3. Holding the hook firmly between the left thumb 
and forefinger, unfasten it, 

4. Begin at the further side, and overhand closely the 
two circles (Fig. 48), being careful not to let the stitches 
show on the right side. 

5. Overhand the under part of the hook, as far as the 
bend. 

6. Fasten, by taking three or four stitches in the same 
place, at one side of the hook ; then run the. needle to the 
opposite side, and again fasten. A great strain comes 
here, and it is necessary to fasten securely. 

Suggestions. — If the eye is on a garment, where it is 
liable to show, cover it with button-hole or loop stitches. 
When sewing on hooks and eyes, use a strong thread or 
twist, and as fine a needle as possible. 

\Vhat is a hook ? What is an eye ? Where is the eye placed ? How is it sewed 
on? How should the thread be fastened? What is done to the two pieces of cloth 
before sewing on the hook ? Where is the hook placed before it is put in position ? 
How is it sewed on ? How is the thread fastened ? 



LOOPS. 

A loop is a catch made in a garment, to take the place 
of an eye. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, and a folded 
and basted piece of cotton cloth. 

Loops. — I. Make a knot in the thread. 

2. Holding the folded edge of the cloth towards you, 
work from left to right. 

3. Half-an-inch from the folded edge take three or 
four stitches one-fourth of an inch in length, and over each 
other (Fig. 49, a). 



66 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 




4. Holding the thread down with the left thumb, insert 
the needle under the backstitches, and over the thread 

(Fig. 49, a)] being careful not to 
take up any threads of the cloth. 

5. Draw the needle and thread 
towards you, so that the purl may 
come at the side of the loop to- 
wards you. 

6. Fill the loop full of stitches 
drawn closely together. 

7. At the right-hand end, draw 
the needle down through the 
cloth, close to the purl of the last 
stitch. 

8. With a few stitches, overhand the underneath stitch- 
ing, and fasten securely. » 

Suggestions. — In making a loop on a garment, the back- 
stitches should be taken one-sixteenth of an inch beyond 
where the loop comes, when the garment is fastened. 
Button-hole stitches can be used instead of loop-stitches. 



Fig. 49. — a, Showing the 
needle in position ; b, 
showing a finished loop; 
c, showing a finished 
loop, enlarged. 



What is a loop ? What is its use .? In which direction do you work in making a ; 
loop? Where and how are the first stitches taken? How is the needle inserted? 
How is the needle drawn through ? How many stitches should be taken in the loop ? \ 
What is done to the underneath stitches ? / 



GUSSETS. 

A gusset is an angular piece of cloth, inserted in a gar- 
ment, to strengthen and enlarge an opening. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, pins, scissors, 
and a piece of cotton cloth five inches square, hemmed 




Fig. 50. — Showing the gusset 
folded over. 



GUSSETS. 67 

on three sides ; for the gusset a quarter of a four-inch 
circle of cloth. 

Gussets. — I . Find the 
middle of the side of the 
cloth not hemmed, and 
cut two inches and a half, 
by a thread. 

2. Make a hem on each 
side, having it one-eighth 
of an inch wide at the 

top, and turned to a point at the bottom. 

3. Find the middle of the rounded side of the gusset, 
and crease to the opposite corner. 

4. Baste with even stitches along the crease. 

5. On all the sides, fold and crease one-fourth of an 
inch. 

6. Cut off all unnecessary thicknesses of cloth in the 
folds, and baste the folds down. 

7. On each side, five-eighths of an inch from point a 
(Fig. 50), make a pin-hole ; then fold and crease from pin- 
hole to pin-hole (Fig. 50, b to b). 

Setting -in the gusset. — i. With a small knot in the 
thread, draw the needle through from the wrong side of 
the gusset, at point a (Fig. 50). 

2. Holding the 'wro7ig side of the cloth towards you, in- 
sert the needle from the right side, two or three threads 
from the end of the opening. 

3. Holding the right sides together, overhand the 
gusset to the cloth, as far as the crease or point b 
(Fig. 50) ; fasten securely. 

4. Overhand the other side in the same manner, begin- 
ning at point a. 



6S 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



5. Fold the gusset over on the crease. 

6. Pin the end of the middle line of basting to the cloth, 
a little below the opening (Fig. 51). 





Fig. 51. — Showing the middle of the 
gusset pinned, and the finished 
gusset on the wrong side. 



Fig. 52. — Showing the 
finished gusset on 
the right side. 



7. Baste and hem the gusset to the cloth. 

8. Make a row of stitching at the fold of the gusset, to 
strengthen it (Fig. 51). 




Fig. 53. — Showing other ways of cutting a gusset. 

Suggestions. — The gusset can be made as large or small 
as desired ; it can -also be cut in different shapes (Fig. 53). 
An easy method of inserting a gusset is to cut a small 
square of cloth ; fold and crease the edges ; placing a 
corner at the end of the opening, overhand two sides ; fold 



GUSSETS. 



69 



on the bias and hem the remaining sides over the over- 
handing stitches. 

Gusset and facing. — i. Make a paper pattern the desired 
size, having the gusset in the proportions of Fig. 54. 

2. Fold the pattern at the dotted lines (Fig. 54), and 
place this edge on an exact bias fold of the cloth, which 
will bring the edge of the gusset on a line with a thread 
of the cloth. 




Pig. 54. _ Showing the shape of a gusset and facing connbined, 



3. Cut the cloth by the pattern, and then cut in one- 
fourth of an inch to a (Fig. 54). 

4. Make a narrow fold on the inner edges of the facing, 
and on the sides of the gusset make a fold turned to a 
point at a. 

5. Fold the edges of the opening in the garment. 

6. With the wrong sides together, overhand the gusset, 
and then the inner edges of the facing, to the opening in 
the garment. 

7. Hem the opposite edges. 

What is a gusset ? What is its use ? How should the hem in the opening be 
made ? In setting-in a gusset, how is the point brought to the opening ? What kind 
of stitches are then taken ? What kind of stitches are used after folding the gusset ? 



70 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK, 



PLACKET. 

A placket is an opening made in a garment. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, and a piece 
of cotton cloth five inches square, hemmed on three 
sides. 

Placket. — I . At the middle of the side not hemmed, 
cut three inches by a thread. 

2. Hold the wrong side of the cloth towards you. 

3. At the left of the opening, make a hem turned to a 
point at the bottom, and one-eighth of an inch wide at the 
top. 

4. At the right, make a hem three-fourths of an inch 
wide the entire length. 

5. Turn to the right side of the cloth. 

6. At the bottom of the wide hem make a horizontal 
crease by a thread. 

7. On the right side of the opening, make a vertical 
crease by a thread, three-fourths of an inch from the 
edge. 

8. Place the edge of the wide hem on this crease. 

9. Holding the hem carefully, baste with small 
stitches, on the horizontal crease. 

10. Make two rows of stitching, one a little below, and 
one a little above the basting. 

What is a placket ? When the wrong side is towards you, how wide a hem is made 
at the left? How wide at the right? How many rows of stitching are taken in 
tacking the hem ? 



TUCKING. 



71 



TUCKING. 

A tuck is a fold made and sewed in a garment for 
ornament, or that the garment may be lengthened when 
necessary. 

Materials. — No. 8 and No. 9 needles, No. 50 and 
No. 90 thread, a sharp-pointed lead-pencil, and a piece of 
cotton cloth six inches square, having at one side an inch 
hem sewed exactly on a thread ; for a measure, a stiff, 
smooth piece of paper or cardboard three inches long 
and half-an-inch wide. 













1 



Fig. 55. — Measure for marking the tucks. 



Tucking-. — i . Put the right-hand end of the strip of 
paper exactly to the right-hand end of the measure 

(Fig- 55). 

2. One-eighth of an inch below the edge of the paper, 
with the lead-pencil, make dots corresponding to each 
line of the measure. 

3.' Hold the wrong side of the cloth towards you. 

4. Half-an-inch from the right-hand edge of the cloth 
lay the paper on, with the end marked a (Fig. 55) exactly 
at the sewing of the hem. 

5. Holding the paper and cloth even, put the large 
needle through each dot. 

6. Move the paper two inches to the left, and prick. 

7. Again move the paper two inches to the left, and 
prick. 



72 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



8. Turn to the right side, and, holding the hem towards 
you, crease by a thread at the first horizontal line of 
dots. 

9. Holding the crease to the light of the window, see 
if it is exactly by a thread. 

10. Make a crease, by a thread, at the second, third 
and fourth lines of dots. 

1 1 . Fold the cloth down at the second crease. 



I 




90^fi&fifia0aooafffifioa9ffOff 000900004 




Fig. 56. — Showing the tucks basted. 

12. Baste exactly by a thread on the first crease 
(Fig. 56). 

13. Fold the cloth at the fourth crease, and baste on 
the third crease. 

14. With the fine needle and thread, run each tuck 
close to the basting, taking up as little of the cloth as 
possible, and passing over twice as much. 

Suggestions. — Tucks are sometimes made lengthwise 
of the cloth, and sometimes across the cloth. The width 
and distance apart are a matter of choice. 



PLAITING. 73 

The chief difficulty is in measuring and folding them ; 
when it is decided at what distance apart and what width 
the tucks are to be made, a paper measure can be made 
as follows. — Make a mark as far from the end of the 
paper, as the sum of the distance apart and the width of 
the tucks ; make a second mark beyond the first mark, 
the width of the tucks ; make a third mark as far from 
the second mark, as the sum of the distance apart and 
twice the width of the tucks ; make a fourth mark 
beyond the third mark, the width of the tucks ; continue 
as for the third and fourth marks. When two tucks have 
been made, the next can be easily marked by folding the 
wrong side together at the second tuck, and making pin- 
holes at the folds of the first tuck. The edge of one 
tuck may form the guide for measuring the next, though 
it is better to mark and baste all the tucks for a short 
distance. Narrow tucks, one-eighth of an inch apart, are 
neat and pretty, but must be made very carefully, as the 
difference of a thread is quickly noticed. 

What is a tuck ? What is its use ? How should the tucks be sewed ? Which 
way of the cloth can they be made ? What is the chief difficulty in making tucks ? 



^i:::^^ 



PLAITING. 



A plait is a fold made in a garment, for fulness or 



trmimmg. 



Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, pins, and a 
piece of cloth nine and a half inches long and four inches 
wide, with a narrow hem at the ends and lower edge. 

Plaiting. — i . On the raw edge of the cloth, with the 
right side towards you, measure one inch from the right- 



74 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



hand end, and mark it by cutting a small notch or insert- 
ing a pin vertically. 

2. Mark every inch and a half to the left of this. 

3. Fold the cloth at the first notch, and bring the fold 
to the edge of the hem. 

4. Insert a pin in the middle of the three thicknesses of 
cloth. 

5. Fold at the next notch, and bring it exactly to the 
underfold of the first plait. 




Fig, 57. — Showing basted plaits, half-an-inch wide. 



6. Place a pin in the middle of the plait. 

7. Fold and pin the other plaits in the same way. 

8. Baste with even stitches, one-fourth of an inch from 
the edge (Fig. 57). 

Suggestions. — Plaits can be laid either to the right or 
to the left. There can be spaces between the plaits, or 
they can meet, as in Fig. 57. If the plaits meet, the 
material must be three times the length that is desired, 
when finished. Box-plaiting is made by beginning at the 



FELLING. 75 

middle, and laying a plait to the right, and another to 
the left ; double box-plaiting is made by adding more 
side-plaits. 

What is a plait ? What is its use ? What different kinds of plaiting are there ? 



/ FELLING. 

A fell is a seam hemmed down to protect the edges. 

Materials. — No. 8 and No. 9 needles, No. 50 and No. 80 
thread, and two pieces of cotton cloth, each five inches 
long and two inches wide. 




Fig 58. — Showing the seam basted. 

Straight-way fell. — i . Place the pieces of cloth together, 
with one edge one-eighth of an inch below the other, and 
baste a narrow seam (Fig. 58). 

2. Sew the seam with a running and a backstitch. 

3. Take out the basting thread, unfold the pieces of 
cloth, and lay the seam over, so that the wider edge will 
be uppermost. 

4. Turn to the right side, and press carefully, exactly 
at the sewing of the seam. 

5. Make a narrow hem (Fig. 59), tucking the ravellings 
under with the point of the needle. 



76 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



Suggestions. — Hem a fell cut on the bias, with the 
grain of the cloth, or from the wider part to the narrow, 
as drawers from the top down. A fell can be made by 




Fig. 59, — Showing the fell partly hemmed. 

sewing it with the edges even, then pare one edge, being 
careful to have the right side of the sewing come on the 
upper side of the fell. 

What is a fell ? What is its use ? How are the pieces of cloth placed together ? 
What should be the width of the seam? How should the seam be sewed ? What is 
done, after the basting is removed ? What is done next ? How is a fell, cut on the 
bias, hemmed ? 



FRENCH SEAM. 

A French seam is a neat manner of joining materials 
that fray. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle. No. 6o thread, scissors, and 
two pieces of calico, each five inches long and two inches 
wade. 

French seam. — i . Place the wrong sides of the calico 
together. 

2. Baste one-eighth of an inch from the edge. 

3. Run directly under the basting. 



SLIP OR BLIND-STITCH. JJ 

4. Cut the ravellings from the edges of the seam. 

5. Turning the wrong side of the calico towards you, 
fold the right sides together, and crease at the sewing of 
the seam. 

6. Baste, so that the raw edges are enclosed. 

7. Half-backstitch the seam, being careful that no 
ravellings can be seen on the right side. 

Sug-gestion. — Trimming can be put on in this manner, 
having the seam very narrow. 

What is a French seam ? Which sides of the cloth should be placed together ? 
How wide a seam should be made? With what kind of stitches should the seam be 
finished ? 



FRENCH HEM ON DAMASK. 

French hemming is used in hemming table-linen. 
Materials. — No. 9 needle. No. 70 thread, and a strip of 
cotton cloth or table-linen. 

French hem. — i . Crease a narrow hem. 

2. Holding the wrong side towards you, fold and crease 
the cloth, so as to make it even with the first fold of the 
hem. 

3. Proceed as in overhanding. 



SLIP OR BLIND-STITCH. 

A slip or blind-stitch is used to fasten a hem lightly. 

Materials. — No. 9 needle. No. 70 thread, and a strip of 
cotton cloth. 

Slip or blind-stitch. — i . Fold and crease a hem half-an- 
inch wide. 



yS SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

2. Baste about a fourth of an inch from the edge. 

3. Make a small knot in the thread. 

4. Conceal the knot by drawing the needle through 
the under part of the fold, one-eighth of an inch from 
the end. 

5. Take up one or two threads of the cloth, and before 
drawing the needle through, take up one-fourth of an 
inch of the edge of the fold. 

6. Continue in this manner, being careful not to draw 
the thread tightly. 

7. Fasten securely. 

Suggestions. — This stitch is used for sewing hems on 
woollen cloth, where it is desired to conceal the stitches. 
Trimmings of silk and velvet are often put on with this 
stitch. 

For what is a slip or blind-stitch used? How are the stitches taken ? 



EDGINGS AND RUFFLES. 
An edging is a trimming on the border of a garment. 

Lace Edging. 

Lace edging is made of fine threads woven into a net. 

Materials. — No. 9 needle, No. 70 thread, pins, half- 
a-yard of inch-wide lace, and a piece of cotton cloth 
six inches long and four inches wide, with a narrow hem 
at the ends and upper edge, and an inch hem at the lower 
edge. 

Lace edging. — i . Holding the scalloped edge towards 
you, make a narrow hem at the right-hand end of the lace. 



EDGINGS AND RUFFLES. 



79 



2. Holding the right sides of the lace and cloth 
together, place the hemmed end of the lace at the top 
edge of the upper left-hand corner of the cloth. 

3. Holding the lace loosely, lightly overhand the edges 
to within a fourth of an inch of the corner. 

4. Run the needle in and out of the cloth, to keep it 
temporarily secure. 

5. Pin the lace at the corner. 




Fig. 60. — Showing lace sewed on, and corners turned, 



6. Measure the width of the lace, and leaving twice the 
width, pin again at the corner. 

7. One-fourth of an inch beyond the corner, pin the 
lace to the cloth. 

8. Run a gathering thread in the edge of the lace, 
from the overhanding to the last pin. 

9. Overhand around the corner, bringing the fulness as 
much as possible at the corner (Fig. 60). 

10. Turn the other corner in the same manner, and 
finish by hemming the end of the lace. 



8o SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

Sug^gestions Lace can be sewed on full by dividing 

the lace and the edge to which it is to be sewed, into 
halves, quarters, etc.; and running a gathering thread 
through the edge of the lace, before basting it on. In 
turning corners, it is better to leave a little more than 
twice the width of the lace, as there must be enough on 
the outer edge, to prevent the lace from hooping. With 
wide lace, leave more than one-fourth of an inch on each 
side of the corner, for the fulness of the lace. 

When measuring for the quantity of edging needed, 
allow enough for the corners. When the ends of the lace 
meet, join by a fell. 

Hamburg Edging. 

Hamburg edging is an embroidered edge, made by 
machinery. It can be sewed on, when no fulness is 
required, by a fell (page 75), a French seam (page 'jG)^ a 
facing (page 52), or by overhanding ; when fulness is 
required, by a facing (page 52), or by whipping (page 82). 

When much wear will come on the edging, it is ad- 
visable to overhand it, as it can then be easily removed ; 
the raw edge of the Hamburg should first be overcast 
with N^xy fine thread. The corners should be turned, and 
the ends sewed, as with lace. 

Ruffles. 

Ruffles are made of various materials, and are plaited, 
gathered, or whipped. 

Materials. — No. 8 and No. 9 needles, No. 40, No. 70, 
and No. 80 thread, pins, scissors, and a piece of cotton 
cloth six inches long and three inches wide, hemmed at 
the ends and upper side ; for the facing, a piece of cloth 



EDGINGS AND RUFFLES. 8 1 

six inches long and one and a half inches wide ; for the 
ruffle, a piece of cambric nine inches long and two inches 
wide, with a very narrow hem at the ends and lower edge. 
A ruffle faced on. — i . Mark the raw edges of the ruffle 
and the cloth, by notches, into halves and quarters. Also 
mark the middle of the facing by a notch. 

2. Gather the ruffle. 

3. Place the right sides of the cloth and ruffle together, 
and pin at the corresponding notches. 

4. Draw up the gathering thread, and fasten around the 
pin. 

5. Adjust the gathers, and run exactly on the gathering 
thread. 

6. Pin the middle and ends of the facing to the ruffle, 
and baste. 

7. Turn the other side towards you, and half -backstitch 
close below the running stitches. 

8. Take out the basting threads. 

9. Turn the facing over and crease it carefully at the 
seam. 

10. Baste and hem the opposite edge of the facing. 
Suggestions. — A heading on a ruffle can be made by 

folding the required width for the heading, and gathering 
it, making one or more rows as desired. The fulness of 
the ruffle depends upon the material ; a narrow cambric 
ruffle should be about one and a half times the length of 
the part to which it is to be sewed. In making a ruffle of 
more than one breadth, the ends should be joined neatly 
before hemming or gathering. 

What is an edging ? Of what is lace edging made ? How should the lace be held 
in overhanding ? What allowance for fulness should be made in turning a corner ? 
How should lace be sewed on, when fulness is required? What is Hamburg edging? 
In what ways can it be sewed on, when there is no fulness ? When fulness is required ? 
From what are ruffles made ? What is first done to the ruffle, the cloth, and the facing ? 



82 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



WHIPPING. 

Whipping is forming gathers by overcasting a rolled 
edge of fine material, and drawing up the thread. 

Materials. — No. 6 and No. 8 needles, No. 40 and No. 60 
thread, pins, scissors, a strip of paper, and a piece of 
cotton cloth six inches long and four inches wide, with a 
narrow hem on the ends and upper edge, and an inch hem 
on the lower edge ; for the ruffle, a piece of plain cambric, 
twelve inches long and two inches wide, with a narrow 
hem on the ends and one side. 




Fig. 61 . — Showing the rolling and overcasting of the ruffle. 



"Whipping. — I . Practise rolling tightly the edge of the 
piece of paper. It must be rolled, not folded. 

2. Divide the edge of the inch hem, and the raw edge 
of the cambric, into halves and quarters, and mark, one 
inch from the edge, by cross-stitches. 

3. Trim the ravellings from the raw edge. 

4. Hold the wrong side of the cambric towards you. 

5. Beginning at the right-hand corner, roll the first 
half-inch of the cambric towards you, between the thumb 
and the forefinger of the left hand. 



WHIPPING. 83 

6. Take the coarse needle and thread, and make a small 
knot. 

7. Inserting the needle at the corner, under the roll, 
take one or two stitches, to fasten the end. 

8. Hold the end of the roll between the right thumb 
and forefinger, and, placing the cambric between the third 
and little finger of the left hand, draw tigJitly. 

9. Pressing the left thumb against the forefinger, rub 
an inch of the edge upwards and downwards, until a 
small, firm roll is made. 

10. Overcast, as far as the cloth is rolled tightly, insert- 
ing the needle under the roll (Fig. 61). 

1 1. Draw up the thread, holding it on a line with the 
raw edge. If the roll is small, and the stitches are taken 
loosely and at regular intervals, the ruffle will draw easily 
on the thread. 

12. Continue, rolling and whipping an inch or two at a 
time. 

13. Placing the right sides of the ruffle and hem to- 
gether, pin the divisions of the ruffle to the divisions of the 
hem. 

14. Draw up the ruffle to the length of the hem, and 
wind the thread around the pin. 

15. Holding the ruffle towards you, overhand, inserting 
the needle in each fold of the whipping, so that the thread 
will lie between the folds (Fig. 62). 

16. Fasten both the whipping and the overhanding 
thread. 

Suggestions. — The fingers should be perfectly clean, to 
prevent soiling the work. In whipping, some prefer to 
take hemming stitches instead of overcasting stitches. 
A ruffle, for whipping, should be twice the length of the 



84 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



part to which it is to be sewed ; it is sometimes advisable 
to make it more than twice as full. A ruffle cut across the 
cloth whips easier than one cut lengthwise. A fine ma- 
terial whips more readily than a coarse one. Ruffles 
should be cut by a thread, which can be done by tearing, 
and then trimming the edges. 




Fig. 62. — Showing the overhanding of the ruffle to the cloth. 

It is best to use short lengths of thread, as a great strain 
comes, when the ruffle is drawn. In making a long ruffle, 
have a thread for each division, and measure as you draw 
the thread. The thread will draw easier, if a large needle 
is used. When corners are to be turned, allow extra ful- 
ness, so that the ruffle will lie flat (page 79). In over- 
handing a ruffle, the garment can be held towards you, but, 
if the whipping thread should prove too short, there is no, 
way to lengthen it ; while, if the ruffle is held towards you, 
the thread can be drawn up or lengthened. 

What is whipping ? In whipping, which side of the ruffle should be held towards 
you ? How do you begin ? What kind of a needle and thread should be used ? How 
is the roll held.? How rolled.? What is done next.? How is the thread drawn? 
How continue ? How is the ruffle sewed on to the hem ? 



STOCKINET DARNING. 



85 



STOCKINET DARNING. 

Stockinet darning is used in filling in a hole with 
thread, so as to supply the part that has been destroyed ; 
or in strengthening a place which shows signs of weak- 
ness. 

Practice in Weaving. 

Materials. — A long-eyed needle, a knot of split zephyr, 
a sharp-pointed lead-pencil, and a two and an eighth inch 
square of cardboard. 

Lattice-work. — i . Turn to 
the measure (page 13). 

2. On one side of the card- 
board half-an-inch from the 
end, and one-fourth of an inch 
from the upper edge, make a 
dot with the pencil. 

3. On a line with this dot, 
make nine more dots exactly 
one-eighth of an inch apart. 

4. Mark the opposite side 
with dots exactly parallel to 
the other dots. 

5. Make a knot in the zephyr and work across 
cardboard from dot to dot (Fig. 63), having 
on the under side one-eighth of an inch long. 

6. Weave across these threads by taking up and pass- 
ing over a thread alternately (Fig. 63). Take a number 
of threads on the needle at once. 

7. Make the second row by taking up those threads, 
which were passed over before. 




Fig. 63. — Showing the weaving 
or lattice-work of threads 
over cardboard. 

the 
the stitches 



S6 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

8. When the row is finished, leave a short loop of the 
zephyr at the opposite end, and holding it firmly, draw 
the zephyr until it is straight. 

9. Continue in this manner, always taking up the 
threads passed over in the previous row. 

Suggestion. — Coarse canvas can be used instead of 
cardboard, and in the place of zephyr, a small cord or 
coarse thread can be used. 



Stockinet Darning. 

Materials. — A long-eyed needle. No. 7 needle. No. 50 
thread, scissors, a small spool of embroidery silk, a piece 
of cardboard or heavy paper three inches long and two 
and a half inches wide, and a piece of woollen stockinet, 
cut four inches lengthwise by a rib of the stockinet, and 
three inches and a half across. 

Stockinet darning. — i . Place the cardboard on the 
wrong side of the stockinet, leaving half-an-inch at each 
side to be folded over the cardboard. 

2. Baste one of the lengthwise edges of the stockinet, 
having it folded exactly by a rib. 

3. Drawing the stockinet smoothly across, fold the 
opposite side by a rib, and baste. 

4. Fold and baste the ends. 

5. In the centre of the stockinet, cut a circle, three- 
fourths of an inch in diameter. 

6. Holding the stockinet lengthwise, begin at the right 
side, half-an-inch from the edge of the circle (Fig. 64, a). 

7. Pointing the large needle from you, take two 
stitches, leaving half-an-inch of the end of the silk to be 
cut off afterwards. 



STOCKINET DARNING. 8/ 

8. With the needle pointing towards you, make the 
next row of three stitches, taking up the threads of the 
stockinet, that were passed over in the preceding row. 

9. So continue, making each row a little longer at both 
top and bottom, as in Fig. 64, till the centre of the circle 
is reached ; then decrease in the same proportion 
(Fig. 64). 

Ir® 9 ilfliMfl 8 %U 

flflSfiiiiii i L 00s 




Fig. 64. — Showing a hole cut, and partly darned. 

10. Be careful to put the needle through the loops of 
the stockinet, at the edge of the circle. 

11. Cross the darn in the same manner, making per- 
fect lattice-work, (Fig. 64). 

Suggestions. — The stockinet is put on the cardboard to 
keep it in place while being worked, and silk is used that 
the stitches may be easily seen, and also that the lesson 
may be interesting. In mending a stocking, hold the 



8S 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



work across three fingers of the left hand. A darning 
ball can be used, which prevents the fingers from being 
pricked, but it is apt to stretch the stocking and the darn. 
The darning can be done on either side of the stocking, 
and should be worked as far as the stocking shows signs 
of weakness ; it should first be worked vertically and 
parallel to the ribs of the stocking. Loops of about one- 
sixteenth of an inch can be left at each end, to provide 
for shrinkage ; stretching the darn slightly, when it is 
finished, will take up these loops. 

The edge of a darn must never be made on one thread, 
as a single thread is not strong enough to bear the strain; 
a diamond or oval shape is better. It is wise to darn a 
thin place before a hole appears. In mending a large 
hole, draw out the rough ends, and, using a fine needle 
and thread, bring the loops or threads as near as pos- 
sible to their proper position. To retain the proper 
shape of a large darn, begin the crossing at the middle 
instead of the end. The darning yarn should correspond 
in color and quality to the stocking. 



Fig. 64a. — Showing darning on scrinn, where the needle is passed 
over two threads, then under two, over two, etc. 



GRAFTING. 89 



GRAFTING. 

Grafting is joining two pieces of stockinet in such a 
manner, as to render the joining invisible. 

Materials. — A long-eyed needle, two pieces of coarse 
stockinet, and yarn the quality and color of the 
stockinet. 

Grafting. — i. Ravel the two edges that are to be joined, 
until the loops are perfectly even and clear. 




Fig. 65. — Showing grafting stitches, and needle in position. 

2. Place the edges together, so that the loops of one 
are exactly opposite the corresponding openings of the 
other (Fig. 65). 

3. Holding the right side towards you, work from right 
to left. 

4. Fasten the end of the yarn, by darning it in and out 
on the wrong side of the stockinet. 

5. Inserting the needle in an upper loop (Fig. 65, a), 
bring it out in the next loop (Fig. 65, b). 

6. Inserting the needle in the under loop (Fig. 65, c) 



90 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

opposite the last upper loop, bring it out in the next loop 
(Fig. 65, d). 

7. Continue, taking two upper loops, then two under 
loops, using one new loop each time, which will cause the 
needle to be inserted twice in each loop. 

8. Fasten the yarn, by darning it in and out on the 
wrong side. 

Swiss-darning. — The stitches in Swiss-darning are taken 
in a manner similar to grafting, and are worked over the 
stitches in the stockinet, to strengthen a thin place. 

Suggestions. — A patch in stockinet can be put in almost 
invisibly as follows : cut a square or oblong hole in the 
stockinet, carefully, by a thread, and ravel the sides until 
the loops are even ; cut the patch, by a thread, the exact 
size of the hole, and clear the loops ; graft in the top and 
lower edges, and Swiss-darn the side edges together, 
working over four or five stitches at each side of the 
joining. 

What is grafting ? What is first done ? How are the edges placed together ? How 
are the stitches taken ? How are the stitches taken in Swiss darning ? 



STOCKING-WEB STITCH. 

Stocking-web stitches are used for filling in a hole in 
stockinet, so as to present the same appearance as the 
woven stockinet, and are made on a foundation of strands. 

Materials. — A long-eyed needle, No. 7 needle. No. 40 
thread, a piece of coarse stockinet three inches square, 
yarn to match in color and quality, and a piece of card- 
board two inches square. 



STOCKING-WEB STITCH. 9 1 

Stocking-web stitches. — i . In the centre of the stocki- 
net, cut carefully, by a thread, an inch square. 

2. Ravel the edges until the loops are clear and even. 

3. With the wrong side of the stockinet to the card- 
board, fold over the edges and baste carefully. 




Fig. 66. — Showing the foundation of strands for stocking-web stitches. 

4. With the fine needle and thread, connect the upper 
and lower loops, as in Fig. 66. 

5. Hold the ribs of the stockinet vertically. 

6. Having the coarse needle threaded with the yarn, 
insert it one or two loops to the right of the lower row, 
and one row above (Fig. 6^, a). 

7. Swiss-darn (page 90) over these stitches, and work 
across the strands with a stitch similar to grafting, insert- 



92 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



ing the needle between the strands in beginning and finish- 
ing the loop (Fig. 6j). 

8. Finish the row by Swiss-darning over two or three 
loops beyond. 




Fig. 67. — Showing stocking-web stitches, and needle in position. 

9. Turn the work around, and one row above, work 
back in a similar manner. 

10. Continue working up the strands, and finish by 
grafting the last row of loops made, to the loops of the 
stockinet. 

For what are stocking-web stitches used ? On what are they made \ 



CLOTH DARNING. 93 

CLOTH DARNING. 

Cloth darning is used to strengthen worn places, or to 
draw together the edges of a tear or cut. 

Straightway-Darn. 

Materials. — No. 9 needle, No. 80 red, blue and pink 
thread, and two pieces of cotton cloth, each three inches 
and a half square. 

— - — ____. pj^|< thread. 

•■— • Blue thread. 

________ Pink thread. 

F'\g. 68. — Showing the cloth prepared by running lines, for practice in 
darning a straightway-tear ; the blue thread representing the tear. 

Straightway-tear. — Darned with vertical stitches. A 
blue thread represents the tear. 

1. Crease across the middle of one of the squares of 
cloth. 

2. Leaving an inch and a fourth at each end, make a 
running on the crease, with the blue thread (Fig. 68). 

3. Make two creases, one, one-fourth of an inch above; 
and one, one-fourth of an inch below the running. 

4. Leaving an inch at both ends, make a running on 
each crease, with pink thread (Fig. 6S). (The pink threads 
are boundary lines for the stitches). 

5. Hold the tear over the cushion of the left fore- 
finger. 

6. Threading the needle with red thread, insert it at 
the right of the lower pink line (Fig. 69, a). 

7. Take six running stitches upwards, bringing the 



94 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

needle out a little below the upper pink line (Fig. 69, b) 
and leaving an end of the thread to be cut off later. 

8. Finish the row, by in- 
> serting the needle above the 
line ; draw it through below 
the line for beginning the 
■ H-h-^-^ H^ n&xt row. 

Fig. 69.- Showing the tear partly 9- Taking up the threads 
darned with vertical stitches. of the cloth, which were 

passed over in the preceding 
row, bring the needle out a little above the lower pink line. 

10. Insert the needle below the line, and draw it 
through above the line for beginning the next row. 

11. Make two rows, between this row and the end of 
the tear. 

12. Beginning the fifth row above the lower line, put 
the needle, at the third stitch, down through the blue line 
or tear (Fig. 69, c). 

13. Take two more stitches, bringing the needle out 
below the upper pink line. 

14. Finish the row ; and continue in the same manner, 
always putting the needle at the third stitch, down 
through the tear, to secure the edges. 

15. In finishing the darn, make four rows beyond 
the tear. 

Straightway-tear. — Darned ~/\ K K K 

• (III 
with slanting stitches. rVr^i 

1 . Crease, and run a square 1' ^ \ \ 

of cloth as before (Fig. 68). ^ 

2. Threading the needle Fig. 70.— Showing the tear partly 
with red thread, insert it at ^^^'^"^ ^'^^ slanting stitches. 
the right of the lower pink line (Fig. 70, a). 



I 



CLOTH DARNING. 



95 



3. On a line, slanting so as to cut off a sixteenth of an 
inch on the opposite line, take six running stitches, bring- 
ing the needle out a little below the upper line (Fig. 
70, b), and leaving an end of the thread to be cutoff later. 

4. Insert the needle above the line, and pointing it 
towards you, take six stitches on a line, all having the 
same slant. Bring the needle out above the lower line at 
the sixth stitch. 

5. Insert the needle below the lower line and take six 
stitches, having the same slant as before ; at the fourth 
stitch, draw the needle down through the tear (Fig. 70, c). 

6. Continue in this manner, always drawing the needle 
down through the tear, at the fourth stitch. 

7. In finishing the darn, make several rows beyond the 
tear. 



Bias-Darn. 

Materials. — Same as for a straightway-darn (page 93). 
Bias-darn, or across both the warp and the woof. — A 

blue thread represents the tear. 

1. Crease the square of cloth diago- 
nally from corner to corner. 

2. Leaving two inches at each end, 
run on the crease with blue 
thread. . ^ 

3. Make two creases, one, 
one-fourth of an inch above ; / 
and one, one-fourth of an ^ ' 
inch below the running. * / ^ 

4. Leaving an inch and a ^ ^ 
fourth at both ends, make a 
running on each crease with pink thread 




Fig. 



7 I . — Showinj 
bias-darn. 



96 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

5. Thread the needle with red thread. 

6. At the right, and beyond the blue line or tear, 
make four rows of eight stitches each, (as for a straight- 
way-darn, page 94) on a line with the vertical threads of 
the cloth (Fig. 71). 

7. Beginning the fifth row above the lower line, draw 
the needle down through the tear at the fourth stitch 
(Fig. 71, ^). 

8. Take three more stitches, bringing the needle out 
below the upper line. 

9. Insert the needle above the line, to finish the row ; 
drawing it out below the line for the next row. 

ID. Continue in this manner, always drawing the 
needle down through the tear, at the fourth stitch. 

II. In finishing the darn, make several rows beyond 
the tear. 

Corner-Darn. 

Materials. — Same as for a straightway-darn (page 93). 
Corner-darn. — A blue thread represents the tear. 

^ J _ I. Crease one side of the 

\\ \ / 1 cloth one inch from the edge. 

\|^Ml 2. At right angles with 



^^^\! 



the crease, make another 

IT ^. ^, crease one inch from the 

I \ f^'g- 72. — Show- 

, " ing the cloth edge. 

, prepared for 3, Call the vertex of the 

I dir'ning'a cor- ^^^1^ ^ (^ig- 7^)- 

I ner-tear,andthe 4. With the pink thread 

corner darned. ^^^ ^^ ^j^^ Crease, On both 

sides of the angle, one and a half inches from point a 
(Fig. 72). 



CLOTH DARNING. 9/ 

5. Crease an angle half -an -inch inside the first 
angle. 

6. With the pink thread, run on the crease, on both 
sides of the angle, one inch (Fig. 72). 

7. Crease half-way between the two angles, and run with 
blue thread. 

8. Using red thread, make a large knot (cut it off after- 
wards), and insert the needle from the right side, at the 
corner (Fig. 72, b). The knot is made to aid in drawing 
up the corner. 

9. Run to point a, putting the needle down through 
the tear, at the fourth stitch. 

10. Slightly curving to the right, return to point b. 

1 1 . Make a row very close and to the left of the first 
row, taking the stitches alternately. 

12. Slightly curving to the left, return to point b. 

13. At the left, make a row directly on a line with a 
thread of the cloth, to the outer pink line. 

14. Make a curved line at the right to point b. 

15. On the opposite side of the corner, make a row on 
a line with a thread of the cloth, as far as the outer pink 
line. 

16. Making a line, curving to the left, return to 
point b. 

17. Beginning at the corner, darn both sides with ver- 
tical stitches (page 94), or slanting stitches (page 94). 

Darning with a Piece Underneath. 

In darning a tear, where the garment is worn thin, or is 
badly torn and ravelled; a piece of cloth should be placed 
underneath. 



98 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

1 . Cut the piece larger than the tear, being careful to 
match the grain of the cloth, also the figures and stripes. 

2. Draw the tear into place, and baste the right side of 
the piece to the wrong side of the garment, matching it 
exactly. 

3. Baste around the edge of the tear. 

4. Take either vertical stitches (page 94), or slanting 
stitches (page 94), through both thicknesses of cloth. 

5. If the hole is large, darn the sides of the tear sepa- 
rately, tucking the ravellings under with the point of the 
needle, as you come to them. 

6. After the darn is finished, lightly secure the piece 
on the wrong side, or cut it off near the darning. 



Fine Drawing on Heavy Woollen Material. 

1 . Use very fine sewing silk, and hold the edges of the 
tear flat upon the left forefinger. 

2. Inserting the needle half-an-inch below the edge of 
the tear, run it through half the thickness of cloth, con- 
cealing the silk. 

3. Inserting the needle in the opposite edge, run 
through the cloth in the same manner. 

4. Draw the edges closely together. 

5. Continue in this manner, being careful not to lap the 
edges. 

6. Brush up the nap on the right side. 

7o Dampen, and press on the wrong side with a hot 
iron. 

It is better to do the darning on the wrong side; but, if 
the garment is lined, it may be done on the right side, 



CLOTH DARNING. 



99 



being careful to insert the needle in the cloth exactly 
where it came out. 

Another way to darn a tear on heavy material is to 
overcast the raw edges closely together, on the wrong side, 
then rub the seam open and darn lightly. 
Lay a wet cloth over the darn, and press. 
To make a perfectly flat seam on sel- 
vedges or heavy woollen cloth, the edges 
may be joined, as in Fig. 73. 




Suggestions. — The aim in darning a tear 
is to repair the rent so nicely that it can 
not be perceived. In darning twilled ma- 
terial, instead of taking the stitches alter- 
nately, make them in slanting rows to cor- 
Pig 73^ respond with the twill. A rent should be 

repaired with fine thread or silk, matching 
the material in quality and color ; if the same color can 
not be obtained, use lengthwise ravellings of the material. 
On fine woollen goods, hair can be used, and the needle 
should be threaded with the root. When darning with 
very fine thread or ravellings, use short needlefuls. As 
fine a needle as possible should be used. 

Darning can be done on the right or wrong side, accord- 
ing to the material. For a tear in coarse material, the 
stitches should be taken more than one-fourth of an inch 
from the edge. The closeness of the rows of stitches 
depends upon the material and the tear. Edges should 
always be worked in a?id out alteimately to secure them. 
Always protect the ends of a tear by darning beyond them. 
To keep the edges of a long tear even, it is best to begin 
to darn in the middle. When a darn is finished, it should 



lOO SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

be dampened and pressed on the wrong side, or a thin, 
damp cloth can be laid on the right side and pressed. To 
mend a rip in the seam of a kid-glove, overhand the edges 
together on the right side, using fine thread or sewing silk 
matching the color of the glove. If there is a strain 
coming on the seam, button-hole stitch the edges, and 
then overhand the purls of the stitches together. 

For what is cloth darning used ? How should the tear be held ? Where should 
the needle be inserted ? What kind of stitches should be taken ? What threads are 
taken up in the second row ? Where should the needle be put at the third stitch in 
the fifth and succeeding rows ? How should the stitches on a bias-darn be taken ? 
Where should the needle be inserted in a corner-darn ? Why is a knot made ? 
How many rows of stitches are made at the corner ? What is the aim in darning ? 
What can be used instead of thread ? What should be done after a darn is finished ? 
How should a kid-glove be mended? 



PATCHING. 

A patch is a piece of cloth, sewed on to a garment to 
repair it. 

Hemming on a Patch. 

Materials. — No. 9 needle. No. 80 thread, scissors, pins, 
and a piece of cotton cloth, five inches square ; for the 
patch, a piece of cloth four inches square. 

Hemming on a patch. — i . Crease the garment, repre- 
sented by the large piece of cloth, through, and across the 
centre (Fig. 74). 

2. Mark the centre by a pin-hole, and half-an-inch from 
the centre on each crease, make a pin-hole. 

3. Crease a square on a line with the holes, and by a 
thread (Fig. 74, a, by c, and d). 

4. Cut out the square on the creasing, being careful 
about the corners. 



PATCHING. 



lOI 



5. Cut diagonally one-fourth of an inch at each corner 
(Fig. 74, /, 2, J, and^). 

6. Fold and crease each edge of the hole, by a thread, 
and baste. 

7. Cut off each corner of the patch one-fourth of an 
inch deep. 




Fig. 74, — Showing the large piece of cloth with the clotted lines 
representing where it is creased, and the plain lines where it should be 
cut. 



8. Holding the right side of the patch towards you, fold 
towards you, and crease, by a thread, one-fourth of an inch 
deep, on all four sides. 

9. Crease through, and across the centre of the patch. 



I02 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



ID. Place the garment on the desk, with the wrong side 
upwards. 

1 1 . Place the folded edges of the patch upon the gar- 
ment, with the warp of the two pieces parallel. 

12. Match the creases, and put in pins. 




Pig. 75. — Showing the right side of a figured-calico patch, hemmed. 

13. With each edge of the patch even with a thread of 
the garment, baste ; turning the corners neatly, by tucking 
the extra fold underneath with the point of the needle. 

14. Turn the other side towards you, and pin the edges 
of the hole down at each corner. 

15. Baste, keeping each edge on a thread of the patch. 



PATCHING. 



103 



16. Hem the garment to the patch, being careful to 
firmly sew the corners, keeping them at right angles. 

17. On the other side, hem the patch to the garment, 
allowing the stitches to appear as little as possible on the 
right side. 




Fig. 76. — Showing Iha right side of a figured-calico patch, overhanded. 

18. Take out the basting threads, and press on the 
wrong side. 

OVERHANDING ON A PaTCH. 

Materials. — Same as before, with the cloth for the patch 
three inches square. 

Overhanding on a patch. — i . Crease the garment, repre- 



I04 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



sented by the large piece of cloth, through, and across the 
centre (Fig. 74). 

2. Cut a small piece out of the centre, to aid later in 
cutting the hole. 

3. Cut across each corner of the patch one-fourth of an 
inch deep. 




Fig. 77. — Showingthe wrong side of a figured-calico patch, overhanded. 

4. Holding the wrong side of the patch towards you, 
make a crease, by a thread, one-fourth of an inch deep, on 
the four sides. 

5. Crease through, and across the centre of the patch. 

6. Place the garment on the desk, with the right side 
upwards. 



PATCHING. 105 

7. Place the folded edges of the patch upon the gar- 
ment, with the warp of the two pieces pa7'allel. 

8. Match the creases, and put in pins. 

9. With the edges of the patch even with the threads of 
the garment, baste ; turning the corners neatly, by tuck- 
ing in the extra fold underneath. 

10. Holding the patch towards you, fold and crease the 
garment even with one edge of the patch. 

1 1 . Holding the two edges securely, overhand them, 
sewing the corners firmly. 

12. Fold and overhand the next side in the same man- 
ner, and so continue, till all the sides are overhanded 
(Fig. J6). 

13. Take out the basting threads. 

14. Turn the wrong side towards you, and carefully cut 
a hole in the garment, one-fourth of an inch inside the 
overhanding stitches. 

15. At each corner, cut diagonally to the overhanding 
stitches. 

16. Open the seam and overcast all the edges (Fig. yy), 
or work them with the blanket-stitch. 

17. Dampen the seams, and press on the wrong side. 

Catch-Stitching on a Flannel Patch. 

Materials. — No. 9 needle, fine silk to match the flannel, 
pins, and a piece of flannel five inches square ; for the 
patch, a piece of flannel three inches and a half square. 

Catch-stitching on a patch. — i. Crease the garment, 
represented by the large piece of flannel, through, and 
across the centre (Fig. 74). 

2. Mark the centre by inserting a pin ; and one inch 
from the middle of each crease, insert a pin. 



io6 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



3. Crease a square, by a thread, on a line with the pins. 

4. Cut the square out on the creasing, being careful in 
cutting the corners. 

5. Crease through, and across the centre of the patch. 

6. Place the garment on the desk, with the wrong side 
upwards. 




Fig. 78. — Showing the right side of the patch; the straight hnes repre- 
sent the edges of the hole. 

7. Place the right side of the patch upon the garment, 
with the nap of the two pieces running the same way. 

8. Match the creases, and put in pins. 

9. With each edge of the patch even with a thread of 
the garment, baste one-fourth of an inch from the edge. 



PATCHING. 



107 



10. Holding the garment towards you, baste one-fourth 
of an inch from the edge of the hole. 

1 1. Draw the needle through the garment from under- 
neath, one-eighth of an inch from the raw edge. 

12. Catch-stitch (see page 1 1 7) around the square, taking 
the inner stitches through the patch, close to the edge of 



vVVVVVVvVVVVVW-a 



<; 
<; 

K 



<: 
<: 



.AA<^^ 



Fig. 79. — Showing the wrong side of the patch ; the straight lines 
represent the edges of the patch. 

the garment ; and the outside stitches one-eighth of an 
inch from the edge, and through both thicknesses of cloth 
(Fig. 78). 

13. Turning the wrong side towards you, catch-stitch in 
the same manner, the edges of the patch to the garment 
(Fig. 79)- 



I08 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

14. Take out the basting threads, and press on the 
wrong side. 

Suggestions. — In practical mending, judgment and con- 
sideration are necessary, and the material should be treated 
as common sense suggests ; the object is to replace the 
torn or worn part with as little display as possible. 

A patch can be put on in various ways : as, hemming 
on the right side and overcasting the raw edges together 
on the wrong side ; it can also be put on by stitching. 
A patch can be overhanded on the wrong side, so that the 
stitches may show less, but the corners are not easily 
turned. Catch-stitching should be used, when the material 
does not easily ravel, as on flannel. Thin, woollen materials 
can be hemmed. When a material is worn, it is better to 
hem the patch on, for, if it is overhanded, the strain comes 
on one thread at each side. 

Stripes, checks and figures should always match, as 
otherwise they attract attention. Care must be taken to 
have the warp and the woof of the patch run the same way 
as those of the garment, the straightest threads of the 
cloth generally represent the warp. The nap must also 
run in the same direction, which can be ascertained by 
passing the hand lightly over it. A patch can be either 
square or oblong, according to the shape of the damaged 
part, but should be large enough to cover the worn place. 
Fine thread or silk, matching the material, should be used ; 
silk should be chosen a shade darker than the material, as 
it will work lighter. 

What is a patch ? What is its use ? In hemming on a patch, on which side of 
the garment should the patch be placed ? On which side, in overhanding on a patch ? 
How should the wrong side of an overhanded patch be finished ? What stitch is used 
in patching flannel ? Which side of the garment is the patch placed upon ? What is 
the object of patching ? What care should be taken concerning the warp and the woof ? 



BIAS PIECING. 



109 



BIAS PIECING. 

Bias piecing is the joining of two diagonal edges of 
cloth. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, pins, scissors, 
and a piece of calico five inches square, cut by a thread. 



Fig. 80. — Showing the strips placed in a line before joining. 

Bias piecing. — i . Fold the square diagonally, from 
corner to corner. 

2. Crease the fold, and cut on the crease. 

3. From each piece of calico, cut two bias strips, each 
being one inch wide. 

4. With the right sides upwards, place the strips on the 
desk in a line for joining, as in Fig. 80. 




Fig. 81 . — Showing the two edges sewed. 

5. Place the right sides of the two middle pieces 
together, with the edges of the ends that are to meet 
even 

6 Move the edge of the upper piece, one-fourth of an 
inch to the left (Fig. 81). 



no SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

7. Holding the edges securely, insert the needle at a 
(Fig. 81) and sew across to b (Fig. 81), with a running 
and a backstitch. 

8. Press open the seam, and cut off the corners that 
protrude. 

9. Join the other two pieces in a similar manner, 
except that the upper edge must be moved to the right. 

Suggestions. — To join the ends evenly, the seam must 
be begun at the vertex of one of the angles, formed at 
the side by the two pieces of cloth, and finished at the 
other. When many bias strips are required, they can be 
easily and accurately cut, by measuring for four widths, 
and then cutting into halves and quarters. 

What is bias piecing ? Where should you begin so as to join the ends evenly ? 
Where finish ? 



PIPING. 

Piping is a cord covered with material cut on the bias, 
and is used to strengthen and finish the edge of a 
garment. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, a small cord 
eleven and a half inches long, a bias strip of cotton cloth 
twelve inches long and one inch wide and a piece of 
cotton cloth eleven and a half inches long, four inches 
wide, hemmed at the ends and one side. 

Piping. — I. Place the cord on the wrong side of the 
bias strip, one-fourth of an inch from the lengthwise 
edge, and one-fourth of an inch from the end. 

2. Fold the end of the bias strip, and then folding the 
edge over, baste close to the cord. 



CORNERS MITRED. 



Ill 



3. Holding the cord downwards, place the wrong side of 
the strip to the right side of the piece of cloth, with the 
raw edge of the fold even with the raw edge of the cloth. 

4. Sew the piping to the edge, with a running and a 
backstitch, keeping close to the cord. 

5. Turn to the wrong side, and hem the opposite edge 
down. 

What is piping ? For what is it used ? 



CORNERS MITRED. 

To mitre a corner is to join two edges of cloth, so that 
they form a right angle. 

To MITRE Two Strips of Cloth. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle. No. 60 thread, scissors, and 

a piece of calico five inches square, cut by a thread. 

To mitre two strips of cloth. — i . Fold and 

crease the square diagonally from corner to 

corner. 

2. Cut on the 

crease. 

3. From one of 

the pieces cut two 

bias strips, each 

strip being one inch Fig. 82. — Show- 

wide, ■"'^ *^^ ^^° 

ends- basted. 
4. Place the 

right sides of the strips of calico 
Fig. 83.- Showingthe right together, SO that the two ends are 
side of a mitred corner. exactly even (Fig. 82). 




112 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



5. Holding the ends even, half-backstitch, by a thread, 
one-fourth of an inch from the edge (Fig. 82). 

6. Press the seam open, and trim the corners (Fig. 83). 

To MITRE THE CORNER OF A HeM. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle. No. 60 thread, pins, scissors, 
and a piece of cotton cloth five inches square, cut by a 
thread. 




!\ 


~"^ - 


f 1 

.1 


|r-| ■nr-i|j' ipj; 

!%V',i,;''''i;';l|'p' 

■ 1 , li „ '1 , 



Fig. 84.— Showing the corner creased Fig. 85. — Showingthe corner 



for cutting. 



and hems basted. 



To mitre the corner of a hem. — i . Cut off one corner, 
one-fourth of an inch deep. 

2. Fold, one-fourth of an inch, the two sides which are 
at right angles with this corner, and crease by a thread. 

3. On each side make a crease, by a thread, one inch 
from the edge of the fold (Fig. 84), for a hem. 

4. Make a pin-hole where the creases meet (Fig. 84, a). 

5. Open all the folds, and make a diagonal crease 
across the corner, one-fourth of an inch outside the pin- 
hole (Fig. 84). 



LOOPS OF TAPE. 



113 



6. Cut on the crease. 

7. Holding the bias edge of the cloth, at the upper 
left-hand side, fold and baste, by a thread, the upper hem. 

8. Fold and crease the bias edge one-fourth of an inch. 

9. Fold the hem at the side, making the edges of the 
two hems meet at a right angle (Fig. 85). 

10. Baste the corner fold and side hem. 

11. Hem the folds, down, taking the stitches at the 
corner fold through only one thickness of cloth. 



What is mitreing a corner? How are the strips placed together? How should 
the edges of the two hems meet ? 



LOOPS OF TAPE. 

Fold the middle of the tape so as to 
form a point, as in Fig. S6. Overhand 
the inner edges for three-fourths of an 
inch, beginning at the ends. Fold the 
ends under, one-fourth of an inch, and 
place them on the wrong side of the 
cloth, one-half an inch from the edge. 
Baste and hem them down on three 
sides. Turn to the right side, and stitch 
the edge of the cloth to the loop. 




Fig. 86. — Showing a 
loop of tape. 



PART III 



ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. 



HEM-STITCH. 

Hem-stitching is a method of hemming, in which the 
threads of the cloth are drawn and separated. 

Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a length- 
wise strip of linen crash. 

Hem-stitch, from right to left. — i . One inch from a 
lengthwise edge of the 
cloth, draw out from 
four to six threads (see 
suggestions) according 
to the coarseness of the 
cloth. 

2. Carefully baste the 
hem to the line thus 
drawn. 

3. Begin at the right-hand side, as for hemming. 

4. Pointing the needle towards you, take up three or 
four cross-threads, and draw the thread through. 

5. Put the needle back, take up the same threads, and 
insert the needle exactly above in the fold of the hem 
(Fig. 87). 




Fig. 87. — Showing hem-stitchins: done 
from right to left, needle in position. 



ii6 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 




Fig. 88. — Showing hem-stitching done 
from left to right, needle in position. 



6. Continue in the same manner, drawing the thread 
tight, to separate the cross-threads. 

Hem-stitch, from left to right. — i . Draw the threads, 

and baste the hem as 
before. 

2. Fasten the thread 
in the hem, at the left- 
hand side. 

3. Pointing the needle 
towards you, take up 
three or four cross- 
threads. 

4. Draw the needle through, and insert it in the fold of 
the hem exactly above where it was inserted under the 
cross-threads (Fig. 88). 

5. Continue in the same manner, drawing the thread 
tight. 

Suggestions. — To draw the threads, choose a coarse 
thread, one-fourth of an inch from the edge, and pick it 
out with the point of the needle. Holding this end with 
the right hand, draw it out carefully, continually pushing 
the gathers towards the opposite end with the left hand. 
Should the thread break, hold the cloth to the light, and 
again pick out the end of the thread. The chief difficulty 
is in drawing the first thread. Threads can be drawn any 
width desired. 

Hem-stitching can be done either lengthwise or cross- 
wise of the cloth. On fine materials, do not count the 
threads, as it is too great a strain on the eyes, and for 
this reason, school-girls should not do much drawn-work. 



CATCH-STITCH. 



117 



CATCH OR HERRINGBONE-STITCH. 

Catch-stitch is a kind of cross-stitch, used to secure the 
edges of flannel. 

Materials. — A long-eyed needle, a knot of split zephyr, 
and a piece of canvas. 




Fig. 89. — Showing catch- 
stitches, and the needle in 
position; the straight lines 
represent the threads of 
the canvas. 



hJ — I — I — I — I — 1 — I — I — 1 — I— I — I — I — I — LJ — I — I 



Fig. 90. — Showing a corner turned, 
and the needle in position for turning 
a corner. 



Catch-stitch. — i . Work from you, holding the canvas 
over the left forefinger. 

2. Insert the needle from underneath, at the lower 
left-hand corner. 

3. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count 
to the right four threads, then forward four threads ; 



I I 8 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

insert the needle, and pointing it towards you take up 
two threads. 

4. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count 
to the left four threads, then forward four threads, and 
take up two threads as before. 

5. Continue in the same manner, making the stitches 
to the right, then to the left ; the zephyr crossing diago- 
nally (Fig. 89). 

6. Notice that the little cross at one side, comes 
between the crosses on the opposite side, and that the 
needle comes out on a line with its insertion for the pre- 
vious stitch. 

7. Turn the corner, by taking a stitch at the left, 
insert the needle at the right, and pointing it towards the 
left, take up two threads (Fig. 90). Turn the canvas, and 
holding the next side across the left forefinger, continue 
as before (Fig. 90). 

Suggestions. — In catch-stitching on flannel, small knots 
may be made if they can be concealed. When ending, 
fasten the thread by running it in and out under the last 
stitch. The thread can be fastened in beginning and 
finishing, by leaving an end to be sewed over and over 
with fine cotton on the wrong side. 

The raw edge of a hem on woollen material may be 
fastened by catch-stitches, to avoid the ridge formed by 
folding the edge. The edges of a seam in flannel may be 
fastened in several ways ; the seam may be folded to one 
side, and the edges fastened by a row of catch-stitches ; 
the seam may be opened and each edge fastened sepa- 
rately ; or, with the seam opened, a row of catch-stitches 
may be put in the middle. 



FEATHER-STITCH. 



119 



FEATHER-STITCH. 

Feather-stitching is used for ornamenting garments, etc. 
Materials. — A long-eyed needle, a knot of split zephyr, 
and a piece of canvas. 







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Fig. 91. — a, Showing single feather-stitches, taken on a line with the 
threads of the cloth ; b, showing double feather-stitches, taken on 
a line with the threads of the cloth ; c, showing single feather- 
stitches, taken slanting across the threads of the cloth ; d, showing 
double feather-stitches, taken slanting across the threads of the 
cloth ; e, showing treble feather-stitches, taken slanting across the 
threads of the cloth. 



Feather-stitch. — i . Work towards you, holding the 
canvas over the left forefinger. 

2. Draw the needle through from underneath at the 
upper left-hand corner (Fig. 91, b). 

3. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count 
two threads to the right, insert the needle, and pointing 
it towards you take up two threads of the canvas. 



I20 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



4. Draw the needle out over the zephyr, which is held 
down by the thumb. 

5. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count 
two threads to the right, and take a stitch as before. 

6. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count 
two threads to the left, and take a stitch, being careful to 
hold the zephyr down with the thumb. 

7. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count 
two threads to the left, and take another stitch. 

8. Continue taking the stitches in this way (Fig. 91, b). 

Suggestions. — For fastening the thread see catch- 
stitching (page 118). This stitch may be changed into 
various designs, as in Fig. 91. Whatever the pattern, 
the stitches should be compact and uniform. 




Fig. 92. 

chain 
needle i 



— Showing 
stitches, 
n position. 



. CHAIN-STITCH. 

Chain-stitching is a method of em- 
broidering, by which the stitches 
resemble a chain. 

Materials. — An embroidery needle, 
embroidery silk, and a strip of cloth. 

Chain-stitch. — i . Work towards you, 
holding the cloth over the left fore- 
finger. 

2. Draw the needle through from 
underneath at the upper end, a short 
distance from the edge. 

3. Holding the thread to the left 
with the thumb, insert the needle where 
the thread comes out, and bring it 



KENSINGTON OUTLINE-STITCH. 



121 



through one-eighth of an inch below, and over the 
thread to form the loop. 

4. Continue in this manner, always inserting the 
needle inside the loop of the last stitch, and being careful 
to take the same number of threads on the needle for 
each stitch. 

Suggestion. — Chain-stitching is often used for outlining 
a pattern. 



KENSINGTON OUTLINE-STITCH. 

Kensington outline-stitching is done by taking a long 
stitch forward on the upper side, and a short stitch back- 
ward on the under-side of the cloth, and is used to form a 
line for ornament. 

Materials. — An embroidery needle, 
embroidery silk, and a strip of 
cloth. 

Kensington outline-stitch. — i . Work 
from you, holding the cloth over the 
left forefinger. 

2. Draw the needle through from 
underneath, at the lower end. 

3. Insert the needle one-eighth of 
an inch above, and two or three 
threads to the right, bringing it out 
at the left one-sixteenth of an inch 
above the place where the thread 
comes through the cloth (Fig. 93). 

4. Continue in this way, keeping the thread to the right 
of the needle, and being careful not to draw the stitches 
tight. 




Fig. 93. — Showing Ken- 
sington outline-stitches, 
needle in position. 



122 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



Suggestions. — Some prefer keeping the thread to the 
left of the needle. Stem-stitching is similar to outline- 
stitching, except that the needle is put farther back. 



BLANKET-STITCH. 



Blanket-stitching is used to secure and ornament the 
edges of woollen material. 

Materials. — An embroidery needle, embroidery silk, 
and a strip of flannel. 

Blanket-stitch. — i . Work from left to right, holding 

the edge of the flannel towards 
you. 

2. Beginning at the corner, 
insert the needle one-fourth of 
an inch from each edge, and 
take two running stitches to 
the edge, leaving an end of 
the thread to be cut off after- 
wards. This brings the thread in position for working. 

3. Holding the thread under the left thumb, put the 
needle in where it was first inserted. 

4. Draw the needle through and over the thread 

(Fig. 94)- 

5. Holding the thread down with the thumb, insert the 
needle one-fourth of an inch to the right, and parallel with 
the previous stitch. 

6. Draw the needle through, and over, the thread, 
being careful that the thread lies loosely on the edge of 
the flannel. 




Fig. 94. — Showing 
blanket - stitclies, 
needle in position. 



BLANKET-STITCH. 



123 



7. Continue in this manner. 

8. To fasten the thread, turn to the wrong side, take a 
running stitch under the last blanket-stitch. Draw the 
thread through, and cut it off. 




Pig, 95. — Showing blanket-stitches tal<en in different forms. 

9. To join the thread, put the needle in under the last 
stitch, as in beginning the work, and draw it out over the 
thread that lies along the edge. 

Suggestions. — If the 






thread is not fastened 
and joined carefully, 
the symmetry of the 
stitches will be broken. 
The order of the 
stitches may be varied 
by taking them at dif- 
ferent depths, and 
leaving spaces between, as in Fig. 95. 

A pretty border can be made with this stitch (Fig. 96), 
by making the first row the desired width from the edge, 
and taking the stitches for the second row through those 
of the first row, and so on. 



Fig. 96. — Showing a bor- 
der of blanket-stitches, 
needle in position. 




124 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



EMBROIDERY KNOTS. 

Embroidery knots are used for ornamentation. 
Materials. — An embroidery needle, embroidery silk, 
and a piece of flannel. 

Embroidery knot No. 1. — i . Holding 
the flannel over the left forefinger, 
draw the needle through from under- 
neath, at the place desired for the 
knot. 

2. Take a small backstitch leaving 
the needle half-way through the flannel. 

3. Take the 
silk, where it 
comes through the 
flannel, and wind 
it twice around the 
needle (Fig. 97). 

4. Holding the 



Fig. 97. — Showing em- 
broidery knot No. I , 
and the needle in 
position. 

coil under the left thumb, draw the 
needle through and insert it where 
it came through the flannel, bringing 
it out where the next knot is to be 
made. 





Fig. 98. — Showing enn- 
broidery knot No. 2, 

Embroidery knot No. 2. — i. Holding and the needle in 
the flannel over the left forefinger, P^^'^'^"- 
draw the needle through from underneath, at the place 
desired for the knot. 

2. Draw the silk towards you to the left ; holding it 
under the thumb, bring the silk to the right, and cross 
below where the silk came out of the flannel (Fig. 98, a). 
Hold the loop thus formed under the thumb. 



MARKING. 125 

3. Insert the needle one or two threads back of a, 
bring it out at a, and pass it through the loop (Fig. 98). 

4. Draw the needle and silk out straight upwards. 

5. Insert the needle again at a, and bring it out where 
the next knot is to be made. 



MARKING. 

Page 126 consists of capital letters ; page 127 consists 
of small letters and upright numerals ; page 128 consists 
of small letters, suitable for fine material, and slanting 
numerals. 

The material, thread and needle should correspond. 
The marking stitch consists of a cross-stitch taken over 
two threads of the canvas. To make the stitch, draw the 
needle through from underneath at the lower r/V///-hand 
corner of the square for the stitch ; insert the needle at 
the tipper left-h^nd corner, bringing it out at the /ower 
A_//-hand corner ; insert the needle at the ?ipper nV/zZ-hand 
corner, and bring it out at the lower ri^-Zi t-h.3.nd corner of 
the next stitch. 

Make no knots, but leave an end of the thread to be 
worked over with the first stitches, or it can afterwards 
be run in and out under the letter. Fasten the thread in 
the same manner. The stitches should all be crossed the 
same way ; the thread should be fastened after finishing" 
a letter, not carried from one to another. Have the back 
of the work look neat. 

When marking on canvas is understood, fine material 
can be easily marked, by basting a piece of scrim over the 
place to be worked, and, after taking the stitches, draw« 
ing out the threads of the scrim. 



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PART IV. 



DRAFTING, CUTTING, AND MAKING 
GARMENTS. 

A few general directions for the cutting of garments 
are here given. 

A table or lap-board, large enough to lay the entire 
pattern upon, is required ; also paper, sharp shears,- 
weights, pins, tape-measure, needles, and thread. 

The first thing to be observed in cutting is whether the 
cloth has a right and a wrong side. If it has a design, 
consider the heavier part as the bottom ; a vine should 
run upwards ; the nap on the cloth should run down- 
wards. 

Before cutting, ascertain if there is sufficient cloth by 
laying the different parts of the pattern upon the cloth in 
such positions, that the cloth will not be unnecessarily 
wasted ; being careful in regard to the up and down of 
the cloth. When there is a scarcity of material, the 
underneath parts of the sleeves may be pieced, hems may 
be faced, and the small pieces may often be used for the 
trimmings. 

The length of the main parts of a garment (as back, • 
front, and sleeves) should be cut parallel to the selvedge 
or warp of the cloth. Fig. 102 represents a wrapper 
placed on cloth, which is folded lengthwise through the 

129 



I30 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



middle; the edge of the front is placed on the selvedge, and 

the back on the fold of the 
cloth, to avoid a seam at the 
back of the skirt. The ver- 
tical perforations in the side- 
back and both portions of the 
sleeve are placed lengthwise 
of the cloth. The perfora- 
tions near the edges of the 
patterns show the seams, 
where alterations should be 
made. The perforations near 
the centre of the front indi- 
cate where the darts should 
be taken up. 

In cutting plain goods, two 
similar parts can be cut at 
once by folding either the 
right or the wrong sides to- 
gether ; the selvedges or edges 
of the material should first be 
pinned together to prevent 
slipping. When the cloth can 
not be doubled, great care 
must be taken not to cut 
similar parts (as sleeves) for 
the same side ; this can al- 
ways be avoided by laying 
one part upon the material, 
with either the right or 
wrong sides together. 
Fig. 102. — Wrapper. Having the cloth spread 




DRAFTING, ETC., GARMENTS. I3I 

out evenly, place a weight or insert a pin at the middle 
of each part of the pattern. Smoothing out each part 
from the middle, pin it to the cloth, being careful to place 
pins closely at the middle of the darts, at the curves, and 
one at each corner of the pattern. Cut evenly and close to 
the edge of the pattern, and be very particular at the curves. 

Linings should be cut and basted carefully on to the 
wrong side of the cloth, before cutting the cloth. The 
notches on the edges of the pattern should only be cut in 
the lining. 

In cutting linings or unlined garments, the marks for 
the seams may be made by a tracing-wheel, or they may 
be pricked with a large needle. Where there are perfora- 
tions, a pencil or chalk may be used. When two parts of 
a garment are cut at once, especially on woollen materials, 
the following tailor's method of marking the perforations 
may be used, — pin the pattern securely through both 
thicknesses of cloth. With a coafse, doubled thread take 
the first stitch in the centre of the perforation and through 
both thicknesses of cloth ; take another stitch in the same 
place, and, in drawing the thread through, leave a loop the 
size of a pencil. At the next perforation make a similar 
stitch, leaving the thread loose between the perforations, 
and so continue, until all the perforations are marked. 
Then cut out the parts, separate the two edges of cloth, 
as far as the thread will permit, and carefully cut the 
threads midway between the two edges. Cut the long 
stitch on the upper side, in the middle, and remove the 
paper pattern. The threads left in the cloth serve as a 
guide for basting. 

Matching. — A plaided, striped, or figured cloth requires 
great care in cutting. If the breadths of a skirt made 



132 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

from a checked or evenly plaided material are cut off in 
the middle of a check, the breadths will readily match. 
In other plaids or designs, cut the lower edge of each 
breadth on the same line of the plaid or design. In cut- 
ting a garment, similar to a dress-waist, which opens in 
front, first decide what part of the plaid, stripe, or design 
will look best for the middle of the front and back. Then 
lay the pattern for the front on the cloth, so that the 
outer fold of the hem is one-eighth of an inch (or one-half 
of the width to be lapped) beyond the middle desired. 
Cut this side out, and cut the other half of the front, by 
laying the part already cut on the cloth, with the right 
sides together, and plaids or designs exactly matching. 
Lay the pattern for the back on the cloth, so that the 
back edge of the pattern is one-fourth of an inch beyond 
the middle desired ; this allows for the seam. Cut the 
other half of the back as in cutting the second half of the 
front. 

In order to cut twilled material on the bias, with the 
twill perpendicular, the cloth must be folded at right 
angles to the twill. To do this, lay the cloth lengthwise 
on the table, with the right side downward, fold over the 
lower right-hand corner, and cut on the fold. Linings for 
broad hems or a curved edge (as a hat) should be cut on 
the bias (see page ii). 

Cotton cloth, calico, or flannel may be torn (page 9), 
when a straight edge is required ; linen should be cut by 
first drawing a thread (page 1 16). 

Drafting. — The following rules for drafting are given 
as suitable in ordinary cases, but the drafter should use 
discretion in regard to personal taste and prevailing 
styles. 



TWO-BREADTH APRON. I 33 

In the illustrations, each square represents an inch. 
Dots are marked by letters, lines are marked by numbers. 
Remember that the dot is the important mark, the letter 
being but a name to the dot, and may be placed in any 
convenient position near the dot. A 



TWO-BREADTH APRON. 

A two-breadth apron, one yard long, having a four inch 
hem, requires two and one-fourth yards of material. 

1. Find half of the length of the material, tear across, 
or fold and cut on the fold. 

2. Fold the lengthwise edges of one of the pieces 
together. 

3. One and one-half inches each side of the fold, tear 
the entire length, or fold again one and one-half inches 
from the edge of the fold and cut both thicknesses of 
material on the last fold. This gives a strip for the bind- 
ing and the, two side-breadths. 

Making. — Sew the raw edges of the side-breadths to 
the front-breadth, thus avoiding a seam in the middle. If 
desired, hem the sides. Make a four inch hem at the 
lower edge, overhanding the ends of the hem before 
hemming. Gather the upper edge and put it into the 
band, being very careful to sew securely at the ends of 
the gathers, as this is where a strain comes. The fulness 
of the gathers depends upon the width of the material 
and the form of the person. Overhand the edges of the 
band together on each side of the gathers. If strings 
are desired, they should be cut before sewing the breadths 
together. Make a narrow hem at the sides of the 



34 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



strings, and a broader hem at the lower end. Gather, or 
lay small plaits, at the other end of the strings ; insert them 
in the ends of the band, and hem the band over them. 



CHILD'S BIB. 

Take a piece of paper fifteen inches long and eleven 
inches wide. 

1 . With the long side of the paper horizontally in front 
of you, write your name and school at the upper left-hand 
corner of the paper. 

2. Fold the lengthwise edges together, so that the 
name shows. 





















— 














A 


^ame 


























S 


chool 




















c 


























y 


^^ 




























/I 














Fol 


d... 










M 


L- 


■ 


A 



Fig. 103. — Child's Bib. 

3. With the folded edge towards you, make a dot at 
the right-hand end of the fold ; mark it A (Fig. 103). 

4. On the fold, make a dot three inches from A ; mark 
it ^. 

5. At the right-hand end, two and one-fourth inches 
above A, make a dot ; mark it C. 

6. Draw a light dash-line from B to C. 

7. Beyond the dash-line, draw a curved line from B to 
C, allowing three-fourths inch curve at the middle. Erase 
the dash-line. 



POCKETS. 135 

8. Cut on the curve. 

Making. — Make a narrow hem on the sides and on the 
straight edges at the top, and an inch hem at the lower 
edge. Bind the curve with narrow linen tape, leaving 
enough at each end for strings. 



POCKETS. 

Take a piece of paper fifteen inches long and six inches 
wide. 

1 . Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in 
front of you. 

2. Write your name and school at the lower part of the 
paper. 

3. Make a dot six inches from the lower left-hand 
corner; mark it A (Fig. 104). 

4. Make a dot one inch to the left of the upper right- 
hand corner ; mark it B. 

5. Make a dot four inches exactly below B ; mark it C. 

6. Draw from A to C. 

7. Draw from B to C. 

8. Cut on the outer lines. 

Making. — When the skirt is made of wash material, 
make the pocket of the same ; for woollen material, use 
strong silesia or cambric. Place the longest side of the 
pattern on a lengthwise fold of the material, and then 
cut. When the pocket is made of material different from 
the skirt, each bias edge should have a facing, two inches 
wide, like the material of the skirt. Baste the facings at 
the outside edges, and hem them at the inner edges. 



136 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



Fold the edges of the pocket together, with the facings on 
the outside. Beginning one-fourth of an inch below A 
(Fig. 104), make a French seam at the side and across 
the lower edge of the pocket. On the bias edge measure 
six inches from the seam, and from this point, stitch to C 
(Fig. 104). Turn the pocket inside out. In a seam of 
the skirt, beginning four and a half inches from the bind- 
ing (this distance depends upon the length of the arm), 
make a slit six inches long, and fasten each end securely. 













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Figs. I 04 and I 05. — Pockets. 



With the facing of the pocket to the right side of the 
skirt, place the lower seams exactly together ; baste, and 
stitch the pocket in. After overcasting, turn the pocket. 
Fold the edges in from B to C and overhand them. Lay 



CHILD S DRAWERS. I 37 

a small plait at the upper end of the pocket, and tack it 
securely to the binding. 

Fig. 105 shows another way of cutting a pocket, which 
is to be inserted in the opening of the skirt between A 
and^. 



CHILD'S DRAWERS. 
(Age, 8 Years.) 

Take a piece of paper twenty-two inches long and four- 
teen inches, wide. 

1 . Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in 
front of you. 

2. Write your name and school two inches from the 
left-hand side of the paper, and eight inches above the 
lower edge. Under the name of the school, put in a 
column the words, waist measure, twenty-two inches ; leg 
measure, seventeen inches ; knee measure, thirteen inches. 

3. Mark the upper left-hand corner A, the upper right- 
hand corner B, the lower left-hand corner C, and the lower 
right-hand corner D (Fig. io6). 

4. Make a dot two inches above C ; mark it E. 

5 . Make a dot two inches above D ; mark it F. 

6. Draw a dash-line from E to F. 

7. Fold the paper under on the line ; this is for the 
hem. 

8. Make a dot seven and one-half inches above F ] 
mark it G. 

9. Make a dot three inches below A ; mark it H. 

10. Make a dot four inches to the left of B ; mark it /. 

1 1 . Draw a line from H to /. 



38 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



1 2. Draw a line from G to /. 

13. Make a dot eight and one-half inches to the right 
of E ; mark \tj. 

14. Draw a light dash-line from G X.o J. 



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Fig. 106. — Child's drawers. 



15. Draw an inward-curving line from G to J, allowing 
one-inch curve in the middle. Erase the dash-line. 

16. Without unfolding the hem, cut the pattern On 
the outside lines. 



NIGHT-DRESS YOKE. I 39 

Making. — For drawers this size, one and one-fourth 
yards of material are required. Fold the cloth lengthwise 
fourteen inches from one of the edges, and pin the thick- 
nesses of cloth together at the selvedge edge. Unfold 
the hem, and lay the longest edge of the pattern on the 
fold, with the lower edge at the raw edge of the cloth. 
Carefully pin the pattern on, and then cut. Remove the 
pattern, lay it on the other end of the cloth in the same 
manner, and cut the other leg. For an opening at the 
side, cut a slit on each fold seven and one-half inches 
deep. Cut two lengthwise bindings, each three inches 
wide and twelve inches long. The lower edge is cut by a 
thread ; begin there to baste, and, if one side proves a 
little longer than the other, pare it off. Sew each leg as 
far as G (Fig. io6). Place the right sides of the legs 
together, with the seams exactly meeting. Turn one 
seam to the right, and the other to the left, and pin. 
Beginning at G, sew the upper portions together. Fold 
and sew the hem of each leg. At the side openings, 
make narrow hems and set in gussets. If preferred, the 
openings may be faced or bound. Leaving two inches at 
each end, gather each side, and put on the bindings, 
allowing more fulness at the middle. 



NIGHT-DRESS YOKE. 
(Bust Measure, 32 Inches.) 

Take a piece of paper seventeen inches long and nine 
inches wide. 

Place the long side of the paper horizontally in front of 
you. 



40 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



Write your name and school three inches from the left- 
hand side of the paper, and three inches above the lower 
edge. 

Front. — I . Draw a vertical dash-line one and one-half 
inches from the left-hand side of the paper. 

2. Fold the paper under on the line, this is for the 
hem. 

3. Mark the upper left-hand corner of the paper A, 
the upper right-hand corner B, the lower left-hand corner 
C, the lower right-hand corner D (Fig. 107). 





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Fig. 107. — Night-dress yoke. 



4. Draw a vertical dash-line eight and one-half inches 
from the left-hand side of the paper ; mark it /. 

5. Make a dot two and one-fourth inches to the right 
of A ; mark it E. 

6. Make a dot three and three-fourths inches below 
A ; mark it F. 

7. Make a dot one inch below B ; one-eighth of an 
inch to the right of this dot make another dot ; mark the 
last dot G. 

8. Draw a light dash-line from F to G, 



NIGHT-DRESS YOKE. I4I 

9. Draw an inward-curving line from F to G ] allowing 
seven-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. 

10. Continue the curved line to E. Erase the dash- 
line. 

1 1 . Make a dot one-half of an inch from line /, and one 
and one-fourth inches from the upper edge of the paper ; 
mark it H. 

12. Draw a line from E to H. 

13. Make a dot one-fourth of an inch from line /, and 
one and three-fourths inches above the lower edge of the 
paper ; mark it /. 

14. Draw an inward-curving line, from H to /, (see 
shape in Fig. 107). 

15. Draw a light dash-line from 6" to /. 

16. Draw an outward-curving line, from C to /, allowing 
three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

17. Mark a notch on the curved line, one inch from E. 

18. Mark a notch on the curved line, one inch from H. 
The notches show where the shoulder-seam should be 

taken. 

Back. — I . Make a dot two inches below B ; mark it J. 

2. Make a dot one inch below the upper edge of the 
paper, and two and one-fourth inches from the right- 
hand edge ; mark it K. 

3. Draw a light dash-line from ^ to K. 

4. Draw an inward-curving line from J to K, allowing 
three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

5. Make a dot one-fourth of an inch from line 7, and 
three and one-half inches below the upper edge of the 
paper ; mark it L. 



142 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

6. Draw a line from K to L. 

7. Make a dot, on line /, one-half of an inch above the 
lower edge of the paper ; mark it M. 

8. Draw a light dash-line from L to M. 

9. Draw an inward-curving line from L to M, allowing 
seven-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

ID. Draw a line from D to M. 

1 1 Mark a notch on the curved line, one inch from L. 

12. Mark a notch on the curved line, one inch from K. 

13. Without unfolding the hem at the front, cut the 
patterns on the outside lines, making the notches small. 



CHILD'S SACK TIER 

(Age, 2 Years.) 

Take a piece of paper one yard long and twelve inches 
wide. 

Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in front 
of you. Mark the upper left-hand corner A, the upper 
right-hand corner B, the lower left-hand corner C, the 
lower right-hand corner D (Fig. 108). 

Front. — I . Make a dot twenty-one and one-half inches 
above C', mark it E. 

2. Make a dot two inches above E ; one and one-half 
inches to the right of this dot and parallel with it, make 
another dot ; mark it F. 

3. Draw a light dash-line from E to F. 

4. Draw an inward-curving line from E to F, allowing 
three-fourths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 



CHILD S SACK TIER. 



143 



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Fig. )08. — Child's sack tier. 



144 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

5 . Make a dot three and one-half inches to the right of 
F a.nd parallel with F; one inch exactly below this dot 
make another dot ; mark it G. 

6. Draw a line from Fto G. 

/. Make a dot three inches exactly below G ; one-half 
of an inch to the left of this dot make another dot ; 
mark it H. 

8. Draw a light dash-line from G to H. 

9. Draw an inward-curving line from G to H, allowing 
three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

10. Make a dot two inches to the right of H, and par- 
allel with H \ mark it /. 

1 1 . Draw an inward-curving line from H to I (see 
shape in Fig. 108). 

12. Make a dot two inches above D ; mark ity. 

13. Draw a line from I to J. 

14. Draw a light dash-line from C to J. 

1 5 . Draw an outward-curving line from C to J, allowing 
one-half of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the dash- 
line. 

Sleeve. — i . Make a dot ten and one-half inches below 
A ; one inch to the right of this dot and parallel with it, 
make another dot ; mark the last dot K. 

2. Make a dot three inches below A ; mark it Z. 

3. Draw a line from K to L. 

4. Make a dot one inch above L ; four inches to the 
right of this dot and parallel with it, make another dot ; 
mark it M. 

5. Draw a light dash-line from L to M. 

6. Draw an inward-curving line from L to M, allowing 
three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 



CHILD S SACK TIER. I45 

7. Make a dot five inches to the right of J/ and par- 
allel with M ; mark it N. 

8. Draw a light dash-line from ^to N. 

9. Draw an outward-curving line from M to TV, allowing 
one and one-fourth inch curve at the middle. Erase 
the dash-line. 

10. Mark a notch at the middle of this curve. 

1 1. Make a dot two and one-half inches to the right of 
N and parallel with N\ one and one-fourth inches 
exactly below this dot make another dot ; mark it O. 

12. Draw a slightly inward-curving line from TV to O. 

13. Make a dot nine and one-half inches to the right 
of K^ and parallel with K ; mark it P. 

14. Draw a line from O to P. 

15. Draw a line from K to P. 



Take a piece of paper one yard long and eleven inches 
wide. 

Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in front 
of you. Mark the lower left-hand corner A ; mark the 
lower right-hand corner B. 

Back. — I . Make a dot one inch above A ; mark it C. 

2. Draw a light dash-line from B to C. 

3. Draw an outward-curving line from B to C, allowing 
one-fourth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

4. Make a dot eighteen inches exactly above C ; three 
and one-half inches to the right of this dot, and parallel 
with it, make another dot ; mark it D. 

5. Draw a line from C to D. 

6. Make a dot one inch to the right of D and parallel 



146 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

with D ; two and one-half inches exactly above this dot 
make another dot ; mark it E. 

7. Draw an inward-curving line from D to E (see shape 
in Fig. 108). 

8. Make a dot three- inches to the right of E, and 
parallel with E ; one and one-half inches exactly above 
this dot, make another dot ; mark it F, 

9. Draw a line from E to F. 

I o. Make a dot one inch exactly below F ; two inches 
to the right of this dot, and parallel with it, make another 
dot ; mark it G. 

1 1 . Draw a light dash-line from Fto G. 

12. Draw an inward-curving line from Fto G, allowing 
three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

13. Make a dot one and one-half inches to the right of 
G ; one-fourth of an inch above this dot make another 
dot ; mark it H. 

14. Continue the curved line from G to H. 

Cuff. — I . Make a dot four inches above N ; mark it /. 

2. Make a dot six and one-half inches to the left of / 
and parallel with / ; mark it y. 

3. Draw a line from / to y. 

4. Make a dot four inches exactly above / ; mark it K. 

5. Draw a line from y to K. 

6. Make a dot four inches above /; mark it L. 

7. Draw a line from K to L. 

Write your name and school at the lower part of each 
pattern. 

Cut each pattern out, on the heavy lines. 

Making. — Lay the longest side of the front pattern on 
a lengthwise fold of the cloth, and cut. Fold the sel- 



CHILD S SACK TIER. 1 47 

vedges of the cloth together, lay the longest side of the 
back pattern on the selvedge edge, and cut the two backs 
at once. With the right sides of the cloth folded 
together, lay the lower edge of the sleeve pattern on a 
woof thread of the cloth, and cut two sleeves at once. 
Lay the narrow edge of the cuff pattern on a woof thread 
of the cloth, and cut one cuff ; cut the other cuff in a 
similar manner. Baste an inch and a half hem at each 
side of the opening in the back ; baste the side and 
shoulder-seams together, allowing half-an-inch seam. Try 
the tier on, make any alterations necessary, and then 
sew the seams. Make an inch hem at the lower edge. 
Sew each sleeve together, making a narrow seam. Gather 
the upper edge of each sleeve, leaving a space of two 
inches each side of the seam. Gather the lower edge of 
each sleeve, leaving a space of an inch and a half each 
side of the seam. Sew the narrow edges of each cuff 
together. Holding the right sides together stitch the 
cuffs to the sleeves. Fold the cuffs over, and hem on the 
wrong side at the stitching. Holding the sleeve- towards 
you, with the upper part of the sleeve marked M (Fig. 
1 08) towards the front, and with the notch at the shoulder- 
seam, sew the sleeve in. Bind or face the neck. Make 
the button-holes, and put on the buttons. If strings are 
desired make them each three inches wide and three- 
fourths of a yard long ; laying a plait, insert the strings 
into the side-seams five inches below the arm-size. 



148 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



GORED SKIRT. 



To make a gored skirt one yard long, having a four 
inch hem, three and one-third yards of material, one yard 
wide are required.^ Tear off three breadths, each forty 
inches long. 

Front-breadth. — i . Fold the lengthwise edges of one 
of the breadths together. 

2. Hold the folded edge towards you. 

3. Make a dot at the right-hand side, ten and one-half 
inches above the folded edge; mark it A. 

4. Make a dot four inches to the left of A and parallel 
with A ; mark it B. This is for the hem. 

5. Make a dot at the left-hand side, eight and one- 
half inches above the folded edge; mark it C. 

6. Make a dot on the folded edge, one-half of an inch 
from the left-hand end; mark it D. 

7. Cut straight from A to B. 

8. Fold the cloth from B to C, and cut on the fold. 

9. Cut from C to D, slightly curving inward. 
Side-breadths. — i. Fold the lengthwise edges of an- 
other breadth together. 

2. Hold the sel\*edges towards you. 

3. Make a dot at the right-hand side, sixteen and orre- 
half inches from the selvedges; mark it A. 

4. Make a dot four inches to the left of A, and parallel 
with A ; mark it B. 

5. Make a dot at the left-hand side, thirteen and one- 
half inches from the selvedges; mark it C. 

6. Cut straight from A to B. 

1 This may be cut from paper if desired. 



DRAWERS. 149 

7. Fold the cloth from B to C, and cut on the fold. 

Back-breadth. — Cut this breadth thirty (or more) inches 
wide. 

Cut the band three and one-half inches wide, and one 
inch longer (to allow for lapping and making) than the 
waist measure. 

Making. — In a gored skirt, the bias edges should be 
towards the back. Place the straight edges of the side- 
breadths to the front-breadth, and pin them together at 
the ends and in the middle. In sewing the seams, hold 
the bias edge towards you, fulling it a little if necessary ; 
or the bias edge can be held smoothly, afterwards cutting 
off the extra length at the lower edge. Sew the back- 
breadth to the side-breadths in a similar manner. Make 
a four inch hem at the lower edge, laying a small plait 
at each seam for the fulness. In the middle of the back- 
breadth make a placket ten inches in length. Put the 
upper edge into the band, allowing more fullness at the 
back than in the front. 



DRAWERS. 

(Age, 12 Years and Upward.) 

1. Place the narrow side of a sheet of drafting-paper 
horizontally in front of you. 

2. Write your name and school five inches from the 
left-hand side of the paper and five inches above the lower 
edge. Under the name of the school, put in a column the 
words, waist measure, leg measure and knee measure. 

3. Take the waist measure tightly, and record it. 



150 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

4. Take the leg measure from the side of the waist to 
the side of the knee, and record it. 

5. Take the measure around the knee, and record it. 

6. Make a dot one inch from the left-hand side of the 
paper, and two inches above the lower edge; mark it A 
(Fig. 109). 

7. From dot A draw an oblong (having the longest side 
vertical) four inches longer than the leg measure, and four 
inches wider than half the waist measure. 

8. Mark the perpendicular line at left /; the upper 
horizontal line 2\ the perpendicular line at right j; the 
lower horizontal line ^. 

/q. Make a dot on line /, four inches below the junction 
/of lines / and 2) mark it B. 

\ 10. Find half the waist measure, and make a dot on 
line 2 this distance from the junction of lines / and 2\ 
mark it C. 

1 1. Make a dot one inch to the left of C\ mark it D. 

12. Make a dot two inches exactly below D\ mark it E. 

13. Draw a line from B to C\ mark 1^5. 

14. Draw a line from B to E] mark it 6. 

15. Find half the leg measure, and make a dot on line J 
this distance from the junction of lines J and ^; mark it 'F. 

16. Make a dot on line ^, from A, two inches more 
than half the knee measure; mark it G. 

17. Draw a light dash-line from C to F. 

18. Draw an outward-curving line from C to F, allow- 
ing one inch curve at the middle; mark it 7. Erase the 
dash-line. 

19. Draw a light dash-line from E to F. 

20. Draw an inward-curving line from E to F, allowing 
half-an-inch curve at the middle; mark it <?. Erase the 
dash-line. 



DRAWERS. 



151 

































































































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152 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

21. Draw a light dash-line from Fto G. 

22. Draw an inward-curving line from Fto G, allowing 
a two inch curve at the middle; mark it p. Erase the 
dash-line. 

23. Fold the paper under on line 4, for the hem. 

24. Without unfolding the hem, cut the pattern on the 
outside lines. Trace lines 6 and 8. 

Making. — Fold the cloth lengthwise, the width of the 
pattern from one of the edges, and pin the thicknesses 
of cloth together. Unfold the hem, and lay the longest 
side of the pattern on the fold, with the lower edge at 
the raw edge of the cloth. Pin the pattern on, and trace 
lines 6 and 8. Cut both thicknesses of cloth at the edges 
of the pattern, and remove the pattern ; then cut the upper 
fold of cloth on the traced lines, this is for the front. Cut 
the other leg' by laying the leg already cut on the cloth, 
right sides together, and the lower edge on a woof thread 
of the cloth. Cut a binding lengthwise of the cloth, 
having it three inches wide and the length of the waist 
measure, allowing one inch for lapping at each opening. 
They may be made to open in the back or at the side. 
When tucks are to be made, allowance must be made 
for them before cutting the cloth. If open drawers are 
desired, face the upper portions of the legs; otherwise 
make them according to the directions on page 1 39. To 
avoid fulness at the waist, the gathers can be put into 
a yoke. 



CHILD S WAIST. I 53 

CHILD'S WAIST (opening in the back). 

(Age, 3 to io Years.) 

Take a piece of paper sixteen inches long and twenty- 
inches wide. 

1. Place the long side of the paper horizontally in 
front of you. 

2. Write your name and school three inches from the 
left-hand side of the paper, and eight inches above the 
lower edge. Under the name of the school, put in a 
column the words, waist measure, bust measure, length 
from tape to back of neck, length from tape to waist, 
length of shoulder. 

3. Take the waist measure, and record it. 

4. Take the bust measure by putting the tape-measure 
around the body close under the arms; pin the ends to- 
gether at the middle of the chest. Record this measure, 
leaving the tape still in position. 

5. Measure from tape to the bone in the back of the 
neck, and record it. 

6. Measure from tape to waist, and record it, 

7. Measure the length of shoulder, and record it. 

8. Draw a horizontal dash-line nine inches above the 
lower edge of the paper; mark it / (Fig, no). 

9. Draw a vertical line two inches from the left-hand 
edge of the paper ; mark it 2. 

10. Draw a vertical dash-line one inch to the right 
of line 2\ mark it j. This allows for the hem. 

1 1 . Find one-half of the bust measure, and at this 
distance from line J draw a vertical line; mark it 4. 

12. Bisect the distance between lines J and^, and half- 



54 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



an-inch to the left of the middle draw a vertical dash-line; 
mark it 5. 

13. Draw a horizontal dash-line from line J to line 4, 
as many inches above line /, as is the measure '^from tape 
to neck"; mark it 6. 

14. Draw a horizontal dash-line from line J to line ^, 
as far below line /, as the measure ''from tape to waist"; 
mark it 7. 

















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Fig. I 10. — Child's waist. 



15. Draw a horizontal line two inches below line 7; 
mark it 8. 

Back. 

Neck. — I. Make a dot one and one-half inches to the 
right of line J, and one-fourth of an inch above line 6; 
mark it ^. 



CHILD S WAIST. I 55 

2. Make a dot at the junction of lines J and 6\ mark 
it ^. 

3. Draw a slightly curved line from A to B (see Fig. 
1 10). 

Shoulder. — i . Draw a horizontal dash-line from line J 
to line 5, one and one-half inches below line 6; mark it 9. 

2. Place the end of the ruler on A, and, bringing the 
shoulder measurement to meet line p, make a dot; mark 
it C. 

3. Draw a straight line from A to C. 

Arm-size. — i. Make a dot half-an-inch below line /, 
on line 5; mark it D. 

2. Draw a curved line from C to D (see Fig. no). 

Front. 

Neck. — I . Make a dot two and one-fourth inches to 
the left of line 4, and one inch above line 6; mark it £. 

2. On line ^ make a dot one and one-half inches below 
line 6; mark it F. 

3. Draw a curved line from E to F (see Fig. 1 10). 
Shoulder. — i . Place the end of the ruler on F, and, 

bringing the shoulder measurement to meet line 6, make 
a dot; mark it G. 

2. Draw a straight line from E to G. 

Arm-size. — To complete the arm-size, draw a curved 
line from G to D (see shape in Fig. 1 10). 

"Waist. — I . If the waist measure is less than the bust 
measure, divide their difference by two, and make a dot 
this distance on line 7 at each side of line 5 ; mark 
them H and /. 

2. Draw a straight line from Z> to //, and another from 
Dto /. 



156 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

3. Make a dot at the junction of lines 5 and 8 ; mark 

it/. 

4. Draw a straight line from H to J, and another from 
/to/. 

If the waist measure is greater than the bust measure, 
slant these lines outward instead of inward, this will 
necessitate a seam. 

Fold the paper under on line J, and cut the pattern on 
the heavy outside lines. 



MISSES' WAIST. 
(Bust Measure, 32 Inches.) 

Take a piece of paper twenty-four inches long and ten 
inches wide. 

Place the longest side of the paper horizontally in front 
of you. 

Make a dot three-fourths of an inch from the left-hand 
side of the paper, and one-half of an inch above the lower 
edge ; mark it A (Fig. 1 1 1). 

From dot A draw an oblong twenty-two and one-half 
inches long, and nine inches wide. 

Mark the upper left-hand corner of the oblong B ; the 
upper right-hand corner C ; the^ lower right-hand corner 
i^(Fig. III). 

Back. — I . Make a dot one-half of an inch above D ; 
mark it E. 

2. Make a dot seven inches to the left of D ; one inch 
exactly above this dot make another dot ; mark the last 
dot F. 



MISSES WAIST. 



157 



3. Make a dot one inch to the right of A ; mark it G, 

4. Draw a line from G to F. 



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Fig. III. — Back and side-back. 

5. Draw a line from i^to E. 

6. Make a dot two inches above A ; one-half of an inch 
to the right of this dot and parallel with it make another 
dot ; mark the last dot //. 

7. Draw a light dash-line from G to H. 

8. Draw an inward-curving line from G to //, allowing 
one-eighth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

9. Make a dot two and one-half inches below B ; three 
and one-half inches to the right of this dot and parallel 
with it make another dot ; mark the last dot /. 

10. Draw a line from H to I. 

1 1. Make a dot two and one-half inches to the right of 
/; one-fourth of an inch below this dot make another 
dot ; mark the last doty. 

12. Draw a light dash-line from / toy". 

13. Draw an inward-curving line from /toy allowing 
one-fourth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 



158 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

14. Make a dot one and three-fourths inches above F\ 
mark it K. 

15. To make the curve fromy to Ky hold a tape-measure 
at fourteen and three-fourths inches between the left 
thumb and forefinger. Place a pencil at the end of the 
tape-measure, holding them both between the right thumb 
and forefinger. Place the point of the pencil on K and 
extend your left hand above it until the tape is drawn 
tightly. Holding the tape firmly, swing, without making 
a mark, the right hand with pencil and tape from J to K. 
When it swings easily and accurately, draw the curve 
from J to K. 

16. Make a dot three and one-half inches above D ; 
three-fourths of an inch to the left of this dot and parallel 
with it make another dot ; mark the last dot L. 

17. Draw a line from K to L. 

18. Draw a light dash-line from L to E. 

19. Draw an outward-curving line from L to E, allowing 
one-eighth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

20. Draw a dash-line from FtoK for the waist-line. 
Side-back. — i . Make a dot one-half of an inch above 

L ; mark it M. 

2. Make a dot one and three-fourths inches above K ; 
mark it N. 

3. Draw a line from N to M. 

4. Make a dot five and three-fourths inches to the right 
of B ; two inches below this dot make another dot ; mark 
the last dot O. 

5. To make the curve from N to O, hold the tape- 
measure at sixteen inches between the left thumb and 
forefinger. Place a pencil at the end of the tape-measure, 



MISSES WAIST. 159 

holding them both between the right thumb and forefinger. 
Place the point of the pencil on Nj and extend your left 
hand above it until the tape is drawn tightly. Holding 
the tape firmly, swing, without making a mark, the right 
hand with pencil and tape from TV to O. When it swings 
easily and accurately, draw the curve from TV to O. 

6. Make a dot seven and one-half inches to the right 
oi B ] three-fourths of an inch below this dot make 
another dot ; mark the last dot P. 

7. Draw a light dash-line from O to P. 

8. Draw an inward-curving line from O to P, allowing 
one-fourth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

9. Make a dot two and one-half inches above TV; mark 

its. 

10. Draw a light dash-line from P to Q. 

1 1 . Draw an inward-curving line from P to Q, allowing 
one-fourth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

12. Make a dot one and one- fourth inches below C\ 
two inches to the left of this dot make another dot ; mark 
the last dot R. 

13. Draw a line from Q to R. 

14. Draw a light dash-line from R to M. 

15. Draw an outward-curving line from R to M, allow- 
ing one-eighth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase 
the dash-line. 

16. Draw a dash-line from N to Q for the waist-line. 
Write your name and school near the middle of each 

pattern ; also back on lower pattern, and side-back on 
upper pattern. 



i6o 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



Take a piece of paper twenty-four inches long and nine- 
teen inches wide. 

Place the longest side of the paper horizontally in front 
of you. 

Make a dot three-fourths of an inch from the left-hand 
side of the paper and one and one-fourth inches above 
the lower edge ; mark it A i¥\g. 112). 



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Fig. 112. — Front and under-arm gore. 



From dot A draw an oblong twenty-two and one-half 
inches long and seventeen inches wide. 

Mark the upper left-hand corner of the oblong B ; the 
upper right-hand corner C ; the lower right-hand corner 
^(Fig. 112). , 

Front. — I . Make a dot three and one-half inches to 
the left of D ; mark it £, 



misses' waist. i6i 

2. Make a dot three inches above D ; one-half of an 
inch to the left of this dot make another dot ; mark the 
last dot F. 

3. Draw a light dash-line from E to F. 

4. Draw an inward-curving line from E to F, allowing 
three-fourths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

5. Make a dot seven and three-fourths inches above 
D ; three inches to the left of this dot make another dot ; 
mark the last dot G. 

6. Draw a line from G to F. 

7. Make a dot nine inches above D ; eight and one- 
half inches to the left of this dot make another dot ; mark 
the last dot H. 

8. Draw a light dash-line from H to G. 

9. Make a dot on the light dash-line two inches from 
H ; draw an inward-curving line from H to G, allowing 
one and one-half inches curve at this dot (see shape in 
Fig. 112). Erase the dash-line. 

10. Make a dot eight and three-fourths inches above 
A ; six and three-fourths inches to the right of this dot 
make another dot ; mark the last dot /. 

1 1 . Draw a light dash-line from / to H. 

12. Draw an inward-curving line from /to H, allowing 
one-fourth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

13. Make a dot ten and one-half inches above A ; two 
and one-half inches to the right of this dot make another 
dot ; mark the last doty. 

14. Draw a line from,/ to /. 

1 5. Make a dot one inch to the right of A ; mark it K. 

16. Draw a light dash-line from /to K. 



1 62 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

17. Draw an outward-curving line from y to K^ allow- 
ing one-half of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

18. Make a dot on the curved line two and one-half 
inches from K ; mark it L. 

19. Make a dot on the curved line three and one-half 
inches from K ; mark it M. 

20. Make a dot six inches to the right of A ; two and 
one-fourth inches above this dot make another dot ; mark 
the last dot N. 

21. Make a dot one and one-half inches above N \ 
mark it O. 

22. Make a dot eleven and one-fourth inches to the 
right of A ; three inches above this dot make another 
dot ; mark the last dot P, 

23. Draw light dash-lines from P to O and from P to 
N. 

24. Draw outward-curving lines from P to O and from 
P to Ny allowing one-eighth of an inch curve at the middle. 
Erase the dash-lines. 

25. Draw a line from Mto O. 

26. Draw a line from 7V^ to Z. 

27. Draw a light dash-line from 7 to O. 

28. Draw an upward-curving dash-line from / to O, 
allowing one-eighth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase 
the light dash-line. This is for the waist-line. 

Under-arm. — i. Make a dot one-half of an inch below 
B ; two inches to the right of this dot make another dot ; 
mark the last dot Q. 

2. Make a dot seven inches to the right of B ; one 
inch below this dot make another dot ; mark the last dot 
R. 



misses' waist. 163 

3. Draw a line from Q to R. 

4. Make a dot seven and one-half inches to the left of 
C ; one and three-fourths inches below this dot make 
another dot ; mark the last dot 5. 

5. Draw a light 'dash-line from R to S. 

6. Draw an inward-curving line from R to 5, allowing 
one-eighth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

7. Make a dot eight and one-eighth inches to the left 
of C ; three and three-fourths inches below this dot make 
another dot ; mark the last dot T, 

8. Draw a light dash-line from S to T. 

9. Draw an inward-curving line from 5 to T, allowing 
one-eighth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

10. Make a dot seven inches to the right of B ; three 
and three-eighths inches below this dot make another dot ; 
mark the last dot U. 

1 1. Draw a light dash-line from T to U. 

12. Draw an inward-curving line from 7^ to U, allowing 
one-eighth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

13. Make a dot four and one-half inches below B ; two 
and one-half inches to the right of this dot make another 
dot ; mark the last dot V. 

14. Draw a line from ^ to V. 

15. Draw a light dash-line from Q to V. 

16. Draw an outward-curving line from Q to V, allow- 
ing one-eighth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the 
dash-line. 

17. Draw a dash-line from R to ^for the waist-line. 
Write your name and school near the middle of each 



1 64 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

pattern ; also front on lower pattern, and under-arm on 
upper pattern. 

Cutting. — Cut the back out, allowing one-fourth of an 
inch seam from E to F and FtoG] three-fourths of an 
inch seam at the shoulder, or from Hto I ; and one-fourth 
of an inch seam from y to K and K to L. Cut on the 
curves at the neck, arm-size, and lower edge, as seams of 
one-fourth of an inch are already allowed. 

Cut the side-back out, allowing one-fourth of an inch 
seam from M to TV^and N to O \ and one-half of an inch 
seam from P to Q and Q to R. Cut on the curved lines 
from O to P and R to M. 

Before cutting the front, fold the paper under on the 
line from A to D \ this is for the hem and should not be 
unfolded until the pattern is cut. Cut the front out, allow- 
ing one-inch seam from J to I and I to ti\ three-fourths 
of an inch seam from G to F. Cut on the curved lines 
from H to G \ E to F\ and K to J. 

Cut the under-arm out, allowing one-half of an inch 
seam from Q to R and R to S ; one-inch seam from V to 
£/and ^to T. Cut on the curved lines from 5 to T^and 
Qto K 

Cutting of the lining. — Lay the lining doubled length- 
wise smoothly upon the table. Pin the edge of the hem 
of the front pattern upon the selvedge edges, and, smooth- 
ing from here, pin the pattern to the lining, placing the 
pins closely at the curves, at the middle of the dart, and 
one at each corner of the pattern. 

Pin the three remaining patterns lengthwise on the 
lining so that no unnecessary waste is made, and being 
careful that the waist-lines are placed exactly crossways 
of the lining. 



misses' waist. 165 

Before cutting, trace the dart in front pattern and all 
seams shown by lines, also the waist-lines. 

Basting of the lining. — Fold the dart lengthwise in the 
middle, pin at the waist-line, and baste with small, even 
basting stitches on the tracing. Fold and baste the hem 
in front. 

Pin the under-arm to the front at the waist-line, and at 
both ends of the seam also between the waist-line and 
upper end. Baste on the tracing with small, even stitches, 
beginning at the waist-line and basting to the top, and 
then on the other side of the seam baste from the waist- 
line to the lower edge. 

Baste the other half of front in the same way. 

Pin and baste the seam in the middle of the back 
according to the tracing, beginning at the waist-line. 

Pin the back to the side-back at the waist-line and 
lower edge ; then, beginning at the waist-line, pin the 
edges evenly together until within three inches of the 
top ; from here the back will have to be fulled a little 
onto the side-back to allow for the shoulder blade. Baste 
according to the tracing beginning at the waist-line. 

Baste the other side-back to the back. 

Join the fronts to the back at the under-arm seams, 
pinning and basting, as in the other seams. 

Pin the shoulder seams together, stretching the front 
slightly before basting. 

HINTS FOR A PLAIN BASQUE. 

There are over four hundred different systems of dress- 
drafting used in the United States, and any one of these 
to be of use requires constant practice. 



1 66 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

Patterns are now easily obtained, and by using judg- 
ment and following the given directions carefully, will be 
found of great assistance. Patterns allowing for seams 
are easier to cut from, than those which do not. 

The trimmings needed for a plain basque are linings, 
sewing silk, button-hole twist, basting cotton, buttons or 
hooks and eyes, and whale-bones. 

The main parts of a plain basque pattern are front, 
back, side-back, under-arm, collar, upper-sleeve, and under- 
sleeve. 

The front pattern can be distinguished from the back 
pattern by the shape of the neck and arm-size, the neck 
of the front being cut lower, and the arm-size being cut 
larger and having more of a curve. The upper-sleeve 
portion is wider than the under-sleeve portion, in order to 
bring the seams more under the arms. 

The edge of the hem of the opening should be laid on 
the selvedge, to avoid making two folds in the hem. 

Great care must be taken to baste the seams of a 
basque according to the marks ; few beginners realize 
that the difference of an eighth of an inch in the width 
of the seven seams, around the waist, will amount to one 
and three-fourths inches. Even basting stitches should 
be used. After the basque is basted, try it on. Altera- 
tions for tightening or loosening the basque, around the 
waist, should be made at the under-arm seams. 

After the seams are sewed, take out the bastings ; pare 
the seams, making notches at the waist-line, and two 
inches above the waist-line, to allow for the curving of 
the dress. The under-arm seams may be left wider than 
the others, that the basque may be let out. 

Press the seams open. Overcast the seams closely, or 



HINTS FOR A PLAIN BASQUE. 16/ 

bind them with a narrow silk binding obtainable for this 
purpose. 

Whale-bone casings can be bought, or a bias strip of 
silesia can be sewed on to the seams, fulling it a little. 
Soak the whale-bones in hot water for an hour, before 
using, which will render them soft and pliable enough to 
sew through. They should be firmly fastened an inch 
above and an inch below the waist-line. 

To finish the lower edge of the basque, baste a bias 
strip of plain lining muslin, two inches wide, on the edge 
of the basque ; then fold the edges- over half-an-inch, and 
catch them to the lining, fastening securely at the seams. 
Put on a facing of a thin material cut on the bias. 



























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Fig. I 13. — Doll's patterns. 



doll's patterns. 169 



DOLL'S PATTERNS. 

On page 168, patterns are given for doll's garments. 
By using inch squared paper, and drawing the patterns in 
the same proportion, as they are given in the one-fourth 
inch squares, patterns will be obtained for a doll ten 
inches long. 



PART V. 

DESCRIPTION OF ARTICLES USED 
IN SEWING. 

COTTON. 

The cotton plant grows on plantations in warm coun- 
tries. Most of the cotton used in the world is raised in 
the United States, where the two principal varieties are 
short-staple cotton or cotton having short fibres, and long- 
staple cotton having long fibres. The short-staple or 
upland cotton, which is chiefly raised, grows on a plant 
from two to three feet in height. Long-staple or sea- 
island cotton grows fifteen to twenty feet high, and is 
found on the islands near the coast of the Southern 
States. Sea-island cotton is much more valuable than 
upland cotton. 

The seed is sown in March and April, and early in June 
the plant begins to bloom. The blossom resembles that 
of the hollyhock, and changes its color, being a pale 
straw-color in the morning, pure white at noon, pale pink 
at night, and a clear pink the next morning. After the 
flowers fall, the pods or bolls grow rapidly, and when ripe 
burst open, showing the fleecy cotton ready for picking, 
which is done by hand or by a machine. 

It is separated from the seeds by being run through 
the cotton-gin, then baled, and shipped to the manufact- 
urers. The bale is opened, and the cotton is put through 
a beater and picker-machine, which loosens the matted 
fibres, and separates a portion of the sand and leaves. It 
is subjected to a second, and sometimes a third process of 



DESCRIPTION OF ARTICLES USED IN SEWING. I /I 

picking, which forms it into laps, or rolls of cotton similar 
to cotton batting. 

These laps are taken to the carding-machines, where 
they are carded, and sometimes combed, until the fibres 
become sufficiently clean and even ; they are then called 
slivers. The slivers pass to the drawing-machine, where 
they are drawn even and parallel, and several of them are 
united into one. Then they are twisted on the roving- 
frames into rovings, which are wound upon bobbins. 
They are next spun into yarn, by passing the rovings 
through the spinning-machines. 

When tJn-ead is to be made, the yarn is doubled and 
twisted more than for weaving into cloth, as greater 
strength is required. It is then reeled off into loose 
hanks for washing, bleaching and dyeing, after which 
comes the reeling on to bobbins, and the spooling. In 
spooling, after the machine-tender has set the spool on 
the spindle and attached the end of the thread from the 
bobbin, the machine does the rest. It runs the thread 
on evenly, without overlapping, or leaving a hair's breadth 
between, and even adjusts its work with the same pre- 
cision to the widening of the spool with every layer 
of thread. It runs on exactly two hundred yards, and 
at the right time and place, cuts the fine slit in the 
edge of the spool, draws the end of thread tightly into 
the slit, cuts it off, and drops the finished spool into 
a tray. The spools are labelled and packed in boxes 
containing a dozen each. 

If the yarn is to be woven into cloth, the warp is 
prepared on one machine, and the woof on another ; 
the warp being made stronger than the woof, as a greater 
strain comes on it. Then they are woven on the loom. 



172 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

great care being taken that every thread is kept in its 
proper position. In weaving, the warp threads are first 
passed from the warp beam at the back of the loom, to 
the cloth beam in front, on which the cloth is to be wound. 
Plain weaving is done by passing the woof, in a shuttle, 
alternately over and under each thread of the warp ; 
this may be readily discerned by unravelling a piece 
of cotton cloth. Twilled cloth is woven by varying the 
number of threads passed over or taken up by the woof. 
In piled cloth, like velvet, other threads are woven in 
with the woof, making loops, which are afterwards cut 
and sheared evenly. Mixed cloth is woven with the warp 
of one color and the woof of another. In striped cloth 
the warp is of two or more different colors ; and in 
checked cloth the warp and woof are both of two colors, 
one set of stripes crossing another. 

White cloth is bleached after weaving. When calico 
is made, the cloth is singed, then bleached, and the 
coloring applied by a printing machine. 



WOOL. 

Wool is obtained chiefly from the sheep, also from the 
alpaca, angora, and cashmere goat. It is brought mainly 
from Australia, South Africa, and South America, but 
the highest grade is obtained from the merinoes of 
Saxony and Silesia in Germany. 

Wool consists of wavy fibres varying from six to 
twelve inches in" length, and differing in grade. Each 
fibre is covered with little sawlike teeth or scales over- 
lying each other, and sticking out wherever a bend 



DESCRIPTION OF ARTICLES USED IN SEWING. 1/3 

occurs. The points of the scales are exceedingly small, 
but when spun, fit into each other and keep the thread 
from untwisting. 

After the wool has been sheared from the sheep, 
which is done yearly, it is separated according to fineness 
and length of fibre into sorts, by experienced men called 
sorters. Then, as it is full of grease and dirt, it is 
scoured by being immersed in successive vats of hot, 
alkaline lye, varying in strength, until most of the 
impurities are removed. After scouring, the wool is 
dried, and it is then ready for further processes. At 
this point the question must be decided whether the 
fabric to be manufactured is to be a woollen or a 
worsted. 

Formerly, woollen goods were made from short-fibred 
wool with high felting properties, while worsted goods 
were made from long-fibred wool with poor felting proper- 
ties, but now, from many kinds of wool both woollens and 
worsteds can be made, the distinction between them 
being caused by the different processes to which the wool 
is subjected. 

We will first describe the method of manufacturing 
woollens. After the wool is scoured, it is passed through 
a willowing-machine in order to remove any dirt or dust 
that may still adhere to it, and also to break up the 
matted pieces. Then it is carded, by which the wool is 
thoroughly cleaned from sticks and lumps, and the fibres 
are torn apart . and then interlaced with each other, 
coming out in the form of a loose rope called sliver, 
in which the separate fibres stand in an infinite variety 
of positions with reference to each other. If the fabric 
is to be wool-dyed, the next process is the dyeings after 



174 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

which it is drawn down by drawing, roving and spinning 
frames into a woollen yarn. 

If greater strength is required, two or more strands 
are twisted together, making a woollen thread ready for 
the loom. If the fabric is to be yarn-dyed, the dyeing 
process occurs at this stage. The yarn is now woven 
into cloth. It is fulled by being soaked in hot, soapy 
water, and subjected to heavy pressure, thus causing the 
fibres to felt together, and the cloth to shrink in width. 
The fabric is now compact and firm, and is ready for the 
finishing processes. The fibres are loosened and raised 
to form a nap, by passing the surface of the cloth over 
the sharp little hooks of the teasel, which are set in 
rollers. Teasels are the flower heads of a variety of 
thistle. Then the cloth is sheared to give a uniform 
surface, and it is passed between steam rollers in order 
to receive the smooth, glossy finish that renders it 
attractive. 

The processes used in making a zvorsted fabric are 
different from those just described in several respects. 
The object is to make a yarn in which the fibres shall 
be drawn out parallel to each other, and then twisted to 
the required degree. 

The wool is put through various machines to straighten 
out the fibres, and to take out those that are too short 
for use. Long wools are put through preparers; shorter 
wools are passed through carding-machines, both of which 
bring the wool into a loose sliver, which, after being back- 
washed and slightly oiled, is passed through a combing- 
machine, where the short fibres, called noils, are combed 
out, and there is formed a firm, smooth, clean rope made 
up of long, parallel fibres loosely adhering to each other. 



DESCRIPTION OF ARTICLES USED IN SEWING. 1/5 

This rope is wound into balls or wool tops, about one 
foot in diameter. Then follow the processes of drawing, 
roving, spinning and twisting, care being taken to pre- 
serve the substantial parallel relation of the fibres to each 
other, until a smooth, level yarn is formed ready for weav- 
ing into cloth. 

After the cloth is woven it is dyed, if that has not 
been done in the yarn, and it is then ready for the finish- 
ing, which differs slightly from the method pursued in 
making woollens. The cloth is not teazled, and is only 
slightly fulled, sometimes not at all. It is singed by being 
passed at a high rate of speed over a hot roller ; is steamed, 
stretched, and pressed between rollers, and is then put up 
in proper shape for sale. 

LINEN. 

Linen thread and cloth are made from the fibres of 
the flax plant. The coverings in which the Egyptian 
mummies have been found enveloped, prove that flax has 
been used from the remotest times in the manufacture 
of linen cloth. In the British Museum pieces of linen 
four thousand years old may be seen. The best qualities 
of flax come from France and The Netherlands. 

The plant grows to a height of two or three feet, and 
bears delicate blue flowers. The stalks of the plant are 
hollow, and consist of a woody portion called the boon, 
and a fibrous portion from which the thread is made. The 
seeds furnish linseed-oil, used for mixing paints. If a 
fine fibre is desired, the stalks are pulled up by the 
roots, when the leaves begin to fall off and the bottom 
of the stalks become yellow. By waiting until the 



176 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



seeds are ripe, a coarser fibre and seeds for oil are ob- 
tained. 

After being dried in the sun, the seeds are removed, 
and the stalks soaked or retted in water to loosen the 
fibres from the boon. The fibres are dried and run 
through rollers, which break the boon. Then they are 
combed out or disentangled, and the wood removed by 
the scutching-machine. The flax, now ready for the mill, 
is put through the hackling-machine, where the short fibres 
are separated from the long. The long fibres are called 
line and go through the spread-board, while the short 
fibres, called tow, pass through the carding-machine ; both 
varieties entering cans called sliver-cans. The sliver then 
passes through a number of drawing-frames, and after 
being doubled and drawn out, it goes to the roving-frame, 
where it is again drawn out, then twisted and wound on 
to bobbins. The rovings are spun on the spinning- 
frames and reduced to yarn, which is either woven into 
cloth or twisted into thread. The linen is bleached for 
white goods, or dyed for colored. 

During all the operations the fibres must be kept wet 
with warm water, to render them pliable. 

Various kinds of heavy cloth, such as canvas, coarse 
toweling, tent-cloth and bagging, are made from hempy 
which is prepared and wove similar to flax. 



SILK. 

There is no more interesting subject than the source 
and manufacture of silk. The manufacture of silk doubt- 
less originated in China. Although some silkworms are 



DESCRIPTION OF ARTICLES USED IN SEWING. 1/7 

raised in this country, the greater part of the raw silk 
is imported from China and Europe. 

The silkworm moth lays the eggs from which the silk- 
worms are hatched, and they in turn become moths. The 
moth is about an inch long, having white wings marked 
with broad pale-brown bars. One moth lays from three 
hundred to seven hundred eggs, so small that it takes 
three or four hundred eggs to cover a space as large as 
a silver dollar. In a warm, dry temperature the eggs 
will hatch in a few days. The young silkworm or cater- 
pillar is dark-colored, and not more than a quarter of an 
inch in length. When full grown the worm is about 
three inches long; the body is made up of twelve joints, 
and it has sixteen legs. It reaches maturity in about a 
month, and during this time feeds upon the leaves of the 
mulberry tree, requiring constant feeding; it also changes 
its skin four times. When about to spin its cocoon on 
some convenient branch or roll of paper, it ceases to 
eat. 

The silk is produced from two small bags filled with a 
liquid gum. From each bag comes a slender tube, and 
the two unite into one near the mouth, through which the 
gum is drawn and spun into silk; thus each fibre of silk, 
when examined under a microscope, is seen to consist of two 
strands, one from each bag. The silkworm first makes an 
outer covering of coarse fibres called floss-silk, then, bend- 
ing itself like a horseshoe, and moving its head from one 
point to another, it entirely surrounds the body with silk, 
not spun regularly around the cocoon, but back and forth, 
so that sometimes yards may be unwound without turning 
over the cocoon. The inner silk is the finest. The cocoon 
is completed in a few days, and is about the size of a 



17^ SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

pigeon's egg. If left undisturbed, in two or three weeks 
the moth will eat its wa}^ through the cocoon, and in so 
doing break and injure the silk ; to prevent this, it is 
stifled or killed by heat. 

Each cocoon contains about one-fourth of a mile of 
thread, as fine as a cobweb, and it takes three thousand 
cocoons to make a pound of silk. The cocoons are 
first sorted, and the outside threads removed. They are 
next placed in tepid water, where they are stirred until 
the ends of four or five threads are found and brought 
together into a single thread, which is wound on to a 
reel. Then it goes to the spinning-frames, where it is 
doubled and twisted into the various sizes required for 
sewing-silk or for weaving. 

The silk after being cleaned (all the knots or obstruc- 
tions removed) and dried, is ready to be colored and 
woven into fabric on the loom. Silk is the strongest of 
all fibres used for weaving. 

The reeling or spinning of the silk is very difficult, as 
the cocoons differ in color, quality and length. The silk 
on the outside of the cocoon, and that near the chrysalis 
is inferior and broken ; so this, with that from cocoons 
which have been injured, is made into what is called spun- 
silk. Raw silk is made from the perfect cocoons. 



SCISSORS AND SHEARS. 

Scissors and shears are made in various sizes and styles ; 
strictly speaking, every pair over six inches in length 
should be called shears. Those made from steel are 
manufactured almost entirely in Germany ; in this country 



DESCRIPTION OF ARTICLES USED IN SEWING. I /Q 

malleable iron with steel for the inside edges is used. 
Nearly all the work is done by hand, but the process of 
making depends somewhat upon the size. Each pair 
passes through the hands of fifty or sixty workmen before 
completion. 

The iron is first melted at the foundry and run into 
moulds of the different shapes desired. The steel is run 
into thin sheets, which are cut into strips, and these are 
punched, and riveted to the iron by one blow of a hammer. 
These pieces are then dipped in water and again in 
powdered borax, to cleanse the surfaces of the iron and 
steel, which would not unite without this process. After 
being heated red hot in a furnace, the two metals are 
welded together, and shaped by a die or stamp. 

A large pair of shears is used to trim the steel, that 
protrudes over the blades ; after which the blades pass 
through the hands of a number of workmen, each doing 
his part towards shaping the shears. They are hardened 
by being plunged while red hot into a tank of cold water, 
which renders them very brittle. To remedy the brittle- 
ness they are put on a plate and again heated, until the 
workman knows by the color that they are properly tem- 
pered or toughened. 

After various processes, in one of which the hole for 
the screw is drilled, a temporary screw is put in, and the 
points and handles adjusted. This screw is taken out 
and the blades are numbered, in order that they may be 
kept in pairs. They are ground on a round stone, making 
a slight hollow on the surface of the blades ; this forms 
an edge to cut on. A small elevation is also made close 
behind the screw, which causes the blades to cant more 
and more towards each other as they are closed. Then 



l80 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

the handles are japanned or nickel-plated, and the blades 
are polished on emery wheels. After this they are taken 
to a stamping-machine, where the maker's name is put on 
them. Then the edges of the blades are sharpened on 
fine emery wheels, the screw is put in, and the blades 
adjusted. 

Lastly they are carefully inspected, packed in boxes, 
and are ready for market. 



NEEDLES. 

Needles have been used by the women of every 
country, in every age. Bronze needles have been found 
in Egyptian tombs, and we have mention of them in 
the early history of the Greeks and Romans. 

The common sewing needle is made from steel wire, 
and is manufactured almost exclusively in England. 
Although simple in form, a needle passes through the 
hands of a hundred workmen before completion. The 
wire is cut from coils into pieces or blanks of twice the 
required length of the needle. After being straightened, 
the blanks are ground to a point at both ends, and 
flattened in the middle ; on this flattened surface the 
groove for the thread is made, also two small indentations 
to mark the places for the eyes, which are drilled by 
machinery. The lengths are now separated, and are 
hardened by being heated and dipped in oil ; then they 
are tempered by again slowly heating and cooling. After 
being scoured, rounded and polished, they are sorted, and 
folded in papers, which, when labelled, are put up in 
packages. 



DESCRIPTION OF ARTICLES USED IN SEWING. 16 1 

Machine needles are manufactured in this country by 
machines invented for the purpose. The work is similar 
to that done on the common needle, machines being 
substituted for part of the hand labor. 



PINS. 

Pins similar to those now in use were not known in 
ancient times, when thorns, and bone, wooden, gold or 
silver skewers were used to fasten the clothing. In the 
sixteenth century, when first manufactured, they were 
so expensive that only the rich could afford to buy them ; 
when first made in the United States, a paper of pins 
cost one dollar. 

Pins are now manufactured by machines and are 
made in many sizes. The wire, after being reduced to 
the proper size and condition, is run through a machine, 
which cuts it into the required length, forms the head, 
and also sharpens the point and tempers it. The pins 
are next cleaned, and the imperfect ones thrown out by 
machinery. The third machine rolls them until they 
are bright and smooth. Another machine sticks them 
into the paper, and, after being inspected under a 
magnifying glass, they are ready for market. A machine 
has been invented which does the entire work. Black 
pins are prepared by japanning the common pins. 



1 82 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



THIMBLES. 

Thimbles have been in use only about two hundred 
years. They are made of metal, celluloid, or aluminum, 
with either an open or closed top. The indentations on 
the surface are made to hold the head of the needle 
firmly. 

In manufacturing metal thimbles, a thin disk or blank, 
about the size of a silver half-dollar, is first cut from 
sheet metal, and is then drawn into a cap. This cap is 
heated and tapered, and the edges rolled ; the top and 
then the sides are indented, and it is completed by being 
polished and plated. 



BUTTONS. 

Buttons are made from many materials, and in many 
sizes and shapes. The cheapest are made of porcelain, 
which is pressed into moulds and baked. 

Vegetable ivory buttons are made from the seeds of 
the ivory plant. The plant grows on the Isthmus of 
Panama, and resembles a palm. The fruit is round, from 
eight to twelve inches in diameter, and weighs about 
twenty-five pounds. It is composed of six or seven 
portions, each portion containing from six to nine seeds. 
These seeds, when ripe, are pure white, free from veins 
or any dots, and are about two inches in diameter. The 
substance is so hard that it can be readily turned in 
the lathe. 

The seeds or nuts are sawed into slabs, from which 
the buttons are turned. The next operation is that 



DESCRIPTION OF ARTICLES USED IN SEWING. 1 83 

of drilling the holes; some buttons are drilled with four 
holes, others with two holes, while others are not drilled, 
but have what is called a self-shank. 

After being dyed or colored they are finished by polish- 
ing and mottling. Horn and bone buttons are made in a 
similar manner. 

Cloth-covered button. — In the manufacture of cloth- 
covered buttons, two round pieces of cloth, one for the 
covering and one for the shank, two collets of tin and a 
thick paper filling are used. The tuft of strong linen is 
placed in the under collet, and a die or stamp comes down, 
and presses the tuft through the collet, making the flexible 
shank by which the button is sewed on. The cloth cov- 
ering is then placed on the upper collet or shell, and 
pressed up into a die. Just before the die holding the 
upper part of the button is pressed into the one holdino- 
the under part, the paper filling is put in. As the dies 
come together they turn the edge of the shell over the 
collet, and the different parts are thus held strongly 
together. 

Flat metal button. — The four-holed metal button is 
manufactured from collets or disks cut from sheet metal. 
The under collet of the button is cut from tin, the upper 
collet from brass. Then the collets are shaped and the 
four holes punched by a machine. A piece of straw- 
board of the same form is prepared, and the three pieces 
are bound together by solidly lapping the edge of the 
brass or larger collet over the other two. 

Hollow gilt button with shank. — This button consists 
of three pieces of brass, — the front, back and the wire 
eye. The manufacture is described in the following steps, 
which may be readily understood if samples are shown. 



1^4 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 

Front. — I. Blanking, or cutting out the round disk 
from the sheet. 2. Stamping, or raising the figure. 3. 
Annealing, or softening after the stamping. 4. Pickling, 
or removing the oxide produced by the annealing. 5. 
Drawing or shaping the front. 6. Annealing. 7. Pick- 
ling. 8. Cleaning, or removing by acids the scales pro- 
duced upon the surface during the manufacture of the 
metal. 9. Lacquering the inside. 10. Drying the 
lacquer, which has been applied to the inside of the front, 
in order that in the process of fire-gilding no gold may be 
wasted by attaching itself to the inside. 11. Cleaning, 
or preparing for the gold. 12. Gilding, showing the 
result after the gold has been applied. The application 
of this gold is by what is known as the *'fire gilding 
process," in which the gold is first dissolved in mercury, 
and applied to the surface of the metal. After this the 
mercury is volatilized in an oven and passes up the chim- 
ney from the oven, leaving the gold in chemical contact 
with the surface of the metal. 13. Scratching, or bright- 
ening by rubbing with a bunch of fine wire. 14. Color- 
ing, or bringing out the color of the gold. 15. Burnish- 
ing, or brightening the surface of the letters with a 
burnishing-stone. 

Back. — I. Cutting and bending the wire for the eye. 
2. Blanking, or cutting out the round disk from the 
sheet. 3. Heading, or attaching the eye to the back. 
4. Charging, or placing of the soldering paste about the 
wire. 5. Soldering. 6. Cleaning, by immersion in 
acids. 7. Stamping into shape, including the embossing 
of the letters. 8. Silvering. 9. Burnishing. 

Ujiiting. — I . Closing, or uniting of the front and 
the back, both of which have been separately finished. 



DESCRIPTION OF ARTICLES USED IN SEWING. 1 85 

2. Edging, or burnishing of the extreme edge. 3. Bottom- 
ing, or burnishing of the edge and the back. 4. Bevel- 
ing, or burnishing of the edge and the front side. 5. 
Finished button. 



HOOKS AND EYES. 

Hooks and eyes are manufactured from wire by ma- 
chinery. Two hundred hooks and the same number of 
eyes, each being made by its own machine, can be manu- 
factured in a minute. The wire, on being unwound from 
a reel, is cut into the required length, and drawn into the 
machine, where it is bent into shape and comes out com- 
pleted. They are silvered or blackened with japan varnish. 

The machines run automatically, all that the machine 
tender has to do is to see that they are supplied with wire. 
The hooks and eyes have to be sewed and stuck on to 
cardboard by hand. 



EMERY. 

Emery is a variety of corundum, and is ranked among 
the hardest of minerals. It derives its name from Cape 
Emeri on the island of Naxos, Grecian Archipelago, 
where the best variety is obtained. It is also found in a 
number of places in the United States. 

It is used for polishing metals. The stone is crushed 
and sifted into powder of different fineness. 



I 86 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 



WAX. 

Bees-wax is an animal secretion, formed by the bees, 
and constitutes the material of which the cells of the 
honey-comb are composed. After the honey is removed, 
the wax is dirty, tough and yellow. To make it pure and 
white, the wax is melted and stirred in boiling water ; 
when cooled the pure wax rises to the top. It is again 
melted, and then bleached in the open air, until it becomes 
white. It is finally melted, strained through sieves and 
cast in molds. 



WHALEBONE. 

The baleen whales, from which whalebone is taken, 
inhabit all known seas. 

The whalebonu grows in several hundred parallel plates 
or blades along each side of the upper jaw of the whale, 
taking the place of teeth. 

The plates, having a hairy fringe at the edge, vary in 
length from a few inches up to ten or twelve feet, and 
form a barrier to the escape of the small animals which 
the whale scoops in from the sea. 

The plates are boiled in water until soft enough to be 
cut into the thin, narrow strips required, which is easily 
done, as the fibres run parallel to each other without inter- 
twisting. 

Flexible steel often takes the place of whalebone. 



INDEX 



Alphabets, 126, 127, 128. 
Articles used, i, 170. 
Basting, 21. 
Bias piecing, 109. 
Bindings, 46. 

Stitching and hemming, 46. 

Setting-in, 49. 

Overhanding, 51. 
Blanket-stitch, 122. 
Blind-stitch, ']']. 
Button-holes, 53. 
Buttons, 61. 
Canvas work, 18. 
Catch-stitch, 1 17. 
Chain-stitch, 120. 
Cloth, 8. 

Corners mitred, iii. 
Creasing, 19. 
Cutting, 10, 129. 

Two-breadth apron, 133. 

Child's bib, 134. 

Pockets, 135. 

Child's drawers, 137. 

Night-dress yoke, 139. 

Child's sack tier, 142. 

Gored skirt, 148. 

Drawers, 149. 

Child's waist, 153. 

Misses' waist, 1 56. 

Hints for a plain basque, 165. 



Darning — 

Cloth darning, 93. 

Straightway-darn, 93. 

Bias-darn, 95. 

Corner-darn, 96. 

Darning with a piece under- 
neath, 97. 

Fine drawing on heavy woollen 
material, 98. 
Stockinet darning, 85. 

Practice in weaving, 85. 

Stockinet darning, 86. 

Grafting, 89. 

Swiss-darning, 90. 

Stocking-web stitch, 90. 
Directions for sewing, 2. 
Drafting, 132. 
Drills, 14. 
Edgings, 78. 
Lace, 78, 
Hamburg, 80. 
Embroidery knots, 124. 
Eyelet-holes, 63. 
Facings, 52. 
Feather-stitch, 1 19. 
Felling, 75. 

Fractions of a yard, 13. 
French hem on damask, "]■]. 
French seam, 76. 
Gathering, 36. 



[88 



INDEX, 



Gathering — 

Double gathering, 40. 

Placing or stroking of gathers, 38. 
Grafting, 89. 
Gussets, 66. 

Gusset and facing combined, 69. 
Half-backstitching, 25. 
Hemming, 25. 
Hem-stitch, 115. 
Herringbone-stitch, 117. 
Honey-combing, 44. 
Hooks and eyes, 64. 
Kensington outline-stitch, 121. 
Knots, 7. 
Loops, 65. 
Loops of tape, 113. 
Marking, 125. 
Measure, 13. 

Mitreing the corner of a hem, 112. 
Mitrefng two strips of cloth, in. 
Needles, 4. 

Numbers of needles and thread, 8. 
Overcasting, 31. 



Overhanding, 33. 
Patching, 100. 

Hemming, 100. 

Overhanding, 103. 

Catch-stitching, 105. 
Piping, no. 
Placket, 70. 
Plaiting, 73. 

Putting away the work, 2. 
Ruffles, 8o.' 
Running, 28. 

Running and a backstitch, 3c 
Scalloped edge, 43. 
Scissors, 10. 
Shirring, 42. 
Slip-stitch, ']']. 
Smocking, 44. 
Stitching, 23. 
Stocking-web stitch, 90. 
Thread, 5. 

Threading the needle, 6. 
Tucking, 71. 
Whipping, 82. 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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